Cave Route 

This was definitely the coolest climb I did the day I climbed here. Really easy climbing but way fun!! Going through the chimney is so cool! This is not a two pitch climb - with a 60m or 70m rope you'll make it in one pitch. The way to belay described above worked fine. Not really any need for gear, just do it in one pitch and belay from the backside of the chimney - there is no way that your belayer is gonna come through that chimney. THIS IS A SUPER FUN ROUTE!!! GO CLIMB IT.........GO CLIMB IT NOW!!

Fun first pitch. Easy climbing with TONS of bolts. Looks to have been rebolted, but all the old homemade bolts are still there. Cool cave, and easy to set up belay with a few cams (a 1,2 and 3 Camalot did the trick). The second chimney pitch was full of bird droppings (making it quite slick). This route is easily doable in 1 pitch with a 60m rope (what I should have done), but you might get some rope drag.

Great route. I'd recommend it for aspiring leaders, as it is well protected, and it's a good safe place to practice setting up a trad anchor after the first pitch. The first pitch is easy, with many bolts (new as well as old homemades), and the second pitch, through the cave, is very unique, although I've never had to commit to crawling directly through so much bird poo in my life. Take a shower after enjoying this route. :)

If you really want to do this in two pitches you can just throw a 20' sling around the knob at the edge of the cave.

Other then that epic route I can't wait to go do it again!

Fun route. Plenty of bolts. Don't know why you would need trad gear. Most of the route is 5.6 with one or two 5.7 moves right before the cave. Getting into the start of the Chimney, I thought, was the crux - slippery and dusty. But once in, the moves were super cool (and I don't even like Chimneys)

Kinda hard to find my way up the mountain (I think taking a longer approach up the far south side would be better then the directs given), but all in all a good route. Make sure you check yourself for ticks at the top. We came across tons of them. Second pitch is super sandy and will keep you on your toes.

If you use 2-4 ft slings on the pro on the 1st pitch then you can climb this in a single pitch. Heads up though - i use omega pacific oval biners on my sling draws and couldn't get them through the 'old school hangers' on the 1st pitch. There is a mix of newer and old style bolts on this route though - you don't need to rely on the old school hangers - and its an easy climb up to the cave.

Great Climb! Fun to do in two pitches as its nice to hang out or have lunch in the cave. All of the bolts were in good condition (at least the new bolts). It is possible to do this climb without clipping the old hangars but closer to the cave it is reassuring to clip the last old school hangar to prevent a bit of a run out. Also, dont even bother bringing cams up for belay. The large horn at the cave entrance bomber! Especially compared to cams in in loose sandstone and plus a 20 foot sling is much lighter than three cams!

Do this route if you are in the area!

i don't quite see how this route could get 3 or even 4 stars. it is not aesthetic climbing. you've got a ton of new and old bolts on the first pitch, pretty much making it look like an aid route (those old bolts should be pulled and holes patched). the climbing itself is okay, but really nothing special. yes, there is the slot and squeeze chimney, but if that's a novelty factor you need to climb something nicer (red dihedral on the incredible hulk comes to mind). the cave was full of swallow sh*t (4 nests on the roof) and the way out of the cave covered with handfuls of sand on the holds. the west face was a little spicier, but so much nicer climbing!