Cave Direct 

This is hands down one of the best problems at Castlewood, if not the best.

I have to agree with you completely. What's even better is that there are endless variations starting lower and lower in the cave, increasing the difficulty to up to v10 or so.

The moves require super sweet body tension, but the last chuck for the jug is tainted by the swing into the block directly behind. I would say for the rating this is one of the best, but definately not THE best. Try punani or even tiger woods. The latter requires just as much tension but has a clean swing upon latching the toss to the jug.

I said it may be the best, I'd have to agree that Punani and Tiger are the other contenders. I didn't hit the block on the dyno on cave direct, so maybe that's why I love it so much...I'm sure after/if I send Punani I'll like it more...it is, after all...Punani.

Where is the start exactly for the V6 at the rail straight below or on the low left rail? Also reading at castlewoodcanyonbouldering.blogspot.com/, the author says that a dab on the boulder doesn't invalidate the climb is this what most people agree to or have most of you figured out a way not to dab?

But since when does Justin Jaeger count? He in-himself is a dab.

Thanks, Tom.

The dab allowance was originally mentioned Bennigfield's guidebook, and seems to be consensus with ascentionists. I was eventually able to send this rig without the dab with an insane amount of try-hard.

To not dab, in addition to climbing it from the slightly lower start and broken parts of this climb as of summer '09, would make this rig harder than most 9s in RMNP.

Just sayin'....

As far as I know, this climb has never been done from the lowest left start from the left-facing pocket down a tier. Some folks were close in '05/'06, but couldn't avoid dabbing on the block in the landing.

JJ,

No worries thanks for the beta today. Had a great time.

Here's to the little dab! Salud!

What about Cave Route Direct Direct Direct? Starting on the jug and going straight up to the crimp. Match and don't go to the jug but jump to the crimp straight up. Eliminate par excellance. Came close today, but the finger hurt so I had to back down.

When was the last time this problem was attempted? I was there several weeks ago in December and noticed another hold broke off. A crucial foot which I totally need to change my beta, b/c I can't even get into the crux sequence anymore =(

I don't know if the breakage has really done that much to change the grade, at most now it is a v7.

Hopped on this yesterday, no dab and felt very 6-y to me. Definitely not 7.