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Cave Complex

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My Cave or Yours S 

Cave Complex  


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Elevation: 8,000'
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 10, 2009
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This cluster of rocks is a bit of a maze with scrambling of some sort required to locate and do most of the climbing. Once one route is found, the rest are far easier to locate. The routes are 30' to 50' tall and Face North, South, and West, offering shade or sun at different times of day. Most are vertical or within a few degrees of it, and ascend on slopers and crimps, but there is one exception- an Offwidth rated 5.9. The rock is generally quite solid.

    The name of the area is apparently derived from a fairly large protected area, which although not really a cave perhaps, certainly resembles one. "Hell's Mansion" as it was apparently once known is pretty large, and no doubt has served various uses over time. The imagination wonders to what the area route called "Your Cave or Mine" might refer to?

    Save for the offwidth, most of the routes here are pretty difficult, if not utterly sandbagged, and are by no means good warmups for the average climber. Beware.

    Getting There 

    From the Main trail to the Sacred Cliffs, go right (South) along the ridge line, staying West of the actual ridge when forced off of the edge by rock.
    You will pass by the Name Game Area and reach the Cave Complex area. The first route seen will likely be 'The Junkyard' a 4-bolt 5.12 with all of the hangers removed, just left of a pine tree growing up the West Face of the flat red face. All Route directions will come roughly from there.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 3.5 miles from here

    1 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For Cave Complex

    My Cave or Yours 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Flatirons : ... : Cave Complex
    A tough line with tough holds that are tough to see. It was traditionally rated 11b, but even wired, the climb would be substantially harder. I find that Demallie edging routes generally are.Climb up non-trivial moves to the first bolt. The opening moves are either a thin boulder problem or stepping up off a rock behind the climb... clip the first bolt, then make increasingly difficult moves off of smaller and more hidden holds until the 3rd bolt at the crux. Decipher that, and climb up over th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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