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This cluster of rocks is a bit of a maze with scrambling of some sort required to locate and do most of the climbing. Once one route is found, the rest are far easier to locate. The routes are 30' to 50' tall and Face North, South, and West, offering shade or sun at different times of day. Most are vertical or within a few degrees of it, and ascend on slopers and crimps, but there is one exception- an Offwidth rated 5.9. The rock is generally quite solid.
From the Main trail to the Sacred Cliffs, go right (South) along the ridge line, staying West of the actual ridge when forced off of the edge by rock.
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A tough line with tough holds that are tough to see. It was traditionally rated 11b, but even wired, the climb would be substantially harder. I find that Demallie edging routes generally are.Climb up non-trivial moves to the first bolt. The opening moves are either a thin boulder problem or stepping up off a rock behind the climb... clip the first bolt, then make increasingly difficult moves off of smaller and more hidden holds until the 3rd bolt at the crux. Decipher that, and climb up over th...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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