|Pão de Açúcar - West Face
6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.
Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.
At the top of pitch 5 on big ledgy area move belay slight up and about 40 feet right to the bottom of a short right facing corner. This corner ends at the downhill part of the man-made structures on the top.
Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. The protection and belay bolts are all the so-called "grampo P" , 1/2" with a U shaped hanger soldered on. So you can rap off midpitch without leaving a biner if necessary.
The start is at a crack a few feet left of the start of the famous Italianos route.
First part of the first pitch takes 2 or 3 pieces of gear, .5 to 2".
Extendable trad slings are necessary to keep down rope drag. I believe the guide used 36" slings fully extended but slighty shorter or longer would probably work.
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 28, 2007
If anyone notices discrepancies, please post in English or Portuguese and I'll fix the route description, as I'm working from memory on a climb I followed a guide up almost 2 years ago.
BTW, guiding rates are very reasonable in Brazil. A google search for "climb in Rio" should bring up lots. I used aribira.com.br