Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cannibal Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Man in Every Pot S 
Baseboy S 
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 
Caliban S 
Caustic Cock S 
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 
Fear This S 
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 
Have a Beer with Fear S 
Ma and Pa Kettle S 
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 
Maneater S 
New Wave Hookers S 
Nipple Fish S 
Pickled Cock S 
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 
What's Eating You S 
Wonderstuff S 
You Are What You Eat T 

Caustic Cock 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Dan Kruleski, Shelby Shelton, Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia (1991)
Page Views: 11,007
Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (246)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Veaz swinging from the final hold on a twilight se...

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder. Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins. From here it gets steep and interesting. The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt. From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors.

This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!

Protection 

4 draws to clip pro with, and 2 more for the anchor at the top.


Photos of Caustic Cock Slideshow Add Photo
Caustic Cock
Caustic Cock
Caustic
Caustic
Roberto de la Riva shaking out
Roberto de la Riva shaking out
Ian Wolfe pulling the crux moves on Caustic Cock. ...
Ian Wolfe pulling the crux moves on Caustic Cock. ...
Unknown female climber working the route at sunset...
Unknown female climber working the route at sunset...
me chalking up before the crux of Caustic on the C...
me chalking up before the crux of Caustic on the C...
Climber on Caustic Cock
Climber on Caustic Cock
the pump factor
the pump factor
Near the top of Caustic Cock.
Near the top of Caustic Cock.
at the start
at the start
Big whipper from the anchor
Big whipper from the anchor
Terence Kudo on Caustic Cock.
Terence Kudo on Caustic Cock.
a free solo of caustic by Matt Lloyd
a free solo of caustic by Matt Lloyd
Sending Caustic on a beautiful March morning
Sending Caustic on a beautiful March morning
Dustin Johnson throwing in a heel hook on Caustic ...
Dustin Johnson throwing in a heel hook on Caustic ...
Gene on Costic.....Where are those anchor chains?
Gene on Costic.....Where are those anchor chains?
Caustic
Caustic
Finally made the anchor.....What a fun climb.
Finally made the anchor.....What a fun climb.
Fall from the fourth bolt.
Fall from the fourth bolt.
Climbing the Cock
Climbing the Cock

Comments on Caustic Cock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 26, 2015
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 18, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Someone placed a "new" bolt at the bottom of the route. Climbers used to have a runout to get to the first bolt, starting the nerves before the real fun even began. =)

Edit: I agree with Gary, in that on such a popular route the added bolt down low has certainly saved some injuries.
By Zach Allen
Sep 8, 2006

A local told me that there was originally a bolt there, but it was chopped because of its proximity to a faint petroglyph. The bolt occasionally reappears and is chopped again.
By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2007

I asked Paul before I replaced the bolt. Now you don't have to go to the hospital if a hand hold breaks.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Aug 21, 2007

Gary.....thanks for adding that bolt, otherwise I would have not considered leading this one. Great route.....pummmmmmmpy!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jan 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Would be hairy without the 1st bolt. The book mentions a TCU placement, not sure where it would go... The crux is quite pumpy, especially if you try to clip the 4th bolt from down low. Sack up and gun for the jugs, the fall is clean. The top has fixed sport anchors now, only 4 draws required for the route.
By dnoB ekiM
Oct 4, 2009

This might be one of the best and is definitely the most photogenic 11B in RR. Don't let the description above discourage you. I am the biggest sport climbing wuss there is and I never felt like the 4th clip was "scary" or sketchy in any way...the third bolt is at your feet at worst...as I recall.

I agree with the others, the first bolt is a smart addition. I'm glad FA-party finally warmed up to the idea. I've climbed the route with and without it (as it has been placed and pulled multiple times in the last 10 years)...and it is a bit sketchy without it. The TCU's go in the pockets about 2/3's the way to the second (or first...) bolt. That said, it is sketch just to get there. Much better route with the lower first bolt in place.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

HOLY SHIT this climb is a bucket of joy. Exposure, jugs, gripability, and quite a long way from that last bolt if'n you don't have the strength to clip the hooks at the anchor. (I should know. My belayer, new to the ways of the Gri-Gri, didn't know to pay out slack--was just letting me PUUUULLLL my way through the clips. And? I didn't make that anchor clip. I can tell you, overhanging 11b is the ONLY way to fly...)

BETA SPOILER: The third and fourth clips (or fourth and fifth, depending on whether that first, controversial bolt is in) aren't as desperate as they initially seem. THIRD CLIP: cam a left foot deep in that small cave/hueco and pivot easily off your right foot for clipping/sorta-resting pleasure. FORTH CLIP: Keep working up, young hero, until you can get a half thigh-bar for your right leg to make this clip easy, too.

ALSO, all the jugs up top are enticing, but work way right, initially, for the best, most positive holds. Then start jugging back towards the anchors. That shit just above the last bolt is just that: shit.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

On 5/14/10 the LVCLC and the ASCA replaced the second bolt on this route- moving it two or three feet to the right, onto the main bulge of the route. It is a 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece.

The bolt was moved this far because we were unable to place it near enough to the original location to facilitate clipping for shorter folks before they would have to commit to the moves above the bolt. The rock in between the old bolt and new bolt is hollow and unsuitable for bolting, thus the new position. If you have any questions or concerns about the location of this bolt, please let us know.
By Alex "Tojo" Kray
From: Tempe/Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

the bomber ledge just above the 4th bolt has a horizontal low-energy hand jam out right for those with no endurance =D
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Sweet route. Climbed it with headlamps. None of the clips were scary at all, just don't try to clip high I guess.
By Manjushri
Aug 16, 2012

I climbed this yesterday and noticed a definitive wiggle in the last bolt, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" when I jerked the hanger around with a draw. I'll try to coordinate a replacement soon.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Climbed this a few days ago. Felt soft for the grade. Epic climb for sure. The last bolt is still loose.
By Adam Floyd
From: Las Vegas
Jan 22, 2014

Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and in conjuction with the LVCLC the last pro bolt on this route was replaced with a 6 1/2" FIXE glue in.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Got on the route post-break yesterday and it's definitely harder, although I don't think it's 5.11c for me. It might be for shorter folks.

Two significant holds broke this season after someone climbed it after a rain-

1) the small crimp before the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now gone, forcing a pretty big move to the jug. If you're taller, a kneebar solves the problem, if you're shorter, though, you'll likely have to do a pretty big toss off the insecure side pull below. Saw lots of people pitching off this move.

2) the small crimp above the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now more of a sloping nub, making the pull off it basically not possible at the grade. Thankfully, there's a sloping jug out right that allows for this section to be done at the same difficulty.

I would say it's definitely solid at 5.11b for sure, possibly harder depending on how the move to the jug feels for folks now...
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This climb is a heady lead. Probably because of the exposure. Some of the holds aren't as great as you think and one or two of the clips up there were most definitely committing. But you're safe if you fall. This is a super popular route.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
May 13, 2015

My right arm ended up getting really pumped... just the right arm, everything else was fine :/...
By Taylor Currier 1
From: South Lake Tahoe, California
May 26, 2015

Climbed this yesterday under the hot May sun. Bolts were good. Clipping was easy. Climbing was fun. I thought I had climbed a 5.10 route. This is a soft 5.11 in my opinion. I'm gonna say 10d...even as a shorter climber.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!