Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Little Tomato
Select Route:
Caught Red Handed 
Gun Powda 
Indian Summer 
Mikey Likes It 
Power Harvest 
Unknown 
Unnamed 

Caught Red Handed 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: Andrew Wilder
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Joe M. on Sep 8, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Xena Slapping Slopers

Description 

The back arete of the boulder. Start sitting with hands on either side of arete, make hard move to sloper and topout up and left. for full V6 value, the crack and jutting rock to the right are off for feet. #2 on the beta photo.


Protection 

pad



Comments on Caught Red Handed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan B
Apr 4, 2011
rating: V5- 6C

This felt like an easier version of Heart of Glass. I started with a right hand on the arete and a left hand in the good slot. Very fun climb.

By Joe M.
Apr 5, 2011

did you use the crack or the jutting rock to the right for feet? it was originally done without those, which makes it a bit harder...

By Ryan B
Apr 5, 2011
rating: V5- 6C

Nope, started as mentioned before with a heel on the lower of two nubbins on the right face and slapped up with the Rt. hand to arete. Transitioned heel to toe, got left foot up and went left to a wide pinch, the farther left to a good edge. The rest was easy. Rt hand stayed on the arete the whole time.

By Ryan B
Apr 5, 2011
rating: V5- 6C

Here is the video. Let me know if I'm off route.

By Joe M.
Apr 6, 2011

nope, that looks good. nice job man! but, you might be climbing better than you think because that's certainly not V4 (especially compared to Neil's Lunge, Iron Cross, or Heart of Glass Stand, all consensus woods V4s).

By ekelsey
From: Mattapoisett
Dec 15, 2012
rating: V6 7A

As a shorter guy I was unable to start with a heel around the right side so I started with a foot underneath and a heel on the left, I then had to make use of the crimp right below the sloper with a left hand to get my right up.

By irujo
Apr 7, 2013
rating: V6 7A

Did the same as Evan using the crimp for a left hand, really fun problem if you don't mind the crux getting off the ground haha