Caught in the Slaughterhouse
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|FA: ||T. Bubb, D. Cunningham, 7/1995|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jan 1, 2005|
The route name comes from the FA party's experience on the route, on which we each lost a significant amount of blood from his hands, arms, shoulders and hips, [owing] in part to the difficulty of the climb and in part to technique, or lack thereof.
This climb starts in a slot just up and right of the bottom pitch (5.9 variation) of Tilted Mitten. Climb up a steep slot/wide crack to where the rock eases off to a lower angle. Some larger cams may be useful. Continue up on face climbing past a system of edges to a large flake. Pro again and head up and over the flake to the ledge up to, passing occasional gear. There are some considerable runouts to be passed, but they are probably more protectable than I made them on the FA, when I was more in "run for you life" mode. Arrive on the ledge above nearly as for the top pitch of Tilted Mitten.
This is a climb I did as one of my first at Lumpy, just before moving here full time. My memories are not quite complete, so I can not say exactly how hard it was, or how bad the gear was. As one of my first routes ever on granite, it is possible that I am overgrading it or undergrading it for lack of familarity with the rock at the time. It may be anywhere between 5.10- and 5.11+.
A few larger cams and a light rack. There will be some runouts.