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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East
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Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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DaBoyz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider Gawd T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wind Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,406 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Clawson on Feb 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
My favorite route on the wall. It is located near the south end of the wall and can be identified by a large right-slanting undercling flake about 2/3 of the way up the climb. There are not many protection opportunities for the first 60 feet or so. I used a small cam in a small vertical crack near the bottom to protect some slab moves before the easy face with large buckets. This bucketed face leads to horizontal cracks the fun undercling and a runout easy Finish on huge holds.
Descend: The easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of Aspen Leaf. Rappel from there into the Bloody Fingers Corridor.
Descend: The easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of Aspen Leaf. Rappel from there into the Bloody Fingers Corridor.
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