Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Margo Young, Joe Frani 1975
Page Views: 5,981 total · 24/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 19, 2004
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route ascends an obvius crack system in upper Oak Creek Canyon.

Approach: Ascent Oak Creek until large pine trees are reached. The route can be seen on the right (sunny) side of the canyon and follows a prominant left slanting crack system.

Pitch 1: Scramble up and right up easy slabs to attain the lower reaches of the crack system. Belay in the crack below some small overhangs.

Pitches 2 - 6: Follow the crack, with occasional hanging belays, upward to the base of a steep wall.

Pitch 7: Follow smaller cracks in the wall through excellent rock to the summit. Cautious climbers may want to stay roped up for another pitch.

Descent: Work left to slabs leading to the head of Oak Creek and then down to the base of the route. A very easy descent by Vegas standards. After the first pitch we saw no fixed anchors at all; retreat would be difficult.

Notes: Pitches 1 - 3 contain some fairly serious runouts at the 5.4 level. This is not a good route for a 5.6 leader! The rock on the lower part of the route is not the best either. The best climbing is the headwall at the top of the route - an excellent pitch.

Routefinding is not a problem - once you settle into the crack system things are quite obvious. The Red Book mentions an easier alternative to the final pitch on the right.

A very long approach for a climb with only a few really good pitches.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Vegas trad rack

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