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Trip to the Vet 
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Unsorted Routes:

Catsup 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jason Haas and Sarah Maclean April, 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Apr 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Catsup is the crack in the center of the photo. "...

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Description 

Just left of "Trip to the Vet" is this line with a shallow right facing corner starting about 15ft. up. Boulder up onto a ledge, and stand in a chimney that squeezes into an offwidth. Utilize the hand crack on the left wall and work your way up a wide hands to hands corner, with a few offwidth pods along the way. Chain anchors after 65ft. as a ledge is reached.


Location 

This route is 10ft. left of "Trip to the Vet" and 10ft. right of the "Unnamed" 5.11+, route 24 in the David Bloom guidebook.


Protection 

.75 camalot of the start, lots of #2 camalots, some #3s, 1 #4, and a #5 camalot is useful, but not necessary as you can plug gear in the handcrack to the left of the offwidth.



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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2009

seemed easier than 10+... or at least easier than the 10 on either side of it.

started with a big cam but easy to avoid off-width climbing. could also place hands pieces in a side crack to start. Then reach past a pod and from there it is a fun narrowing corner to the chains.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

this was a very nice little route, and would make a good early lead for someone new to the desert who wanted to work towards doing tower routes. great find jason!