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Catskills Mixed and Dry Tool routes
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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Dec 24, 2013
NJ

Heading up north in a few days and not expecting much ice. Looking for some mixed or dry tool routes. Very new to mixed and dry tooling. At best, climb WI4.


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By Gunkiemike
Dec 26, 2013

Stop in to Rock & Snow in New Paltz and pick up the new Catskill ice guidebook. It's the best source of info for mixed routes. Not a lot in the M4 and below range though. Asbestos wall may be your best bet; easy to set up TRs there and at least 3 lines with introductory drytooling opportunities.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Dec 26, 2013
Rumney

I'm thinking learning to dry tool on the sharp end is unwise, so best to find some top ropes to learn how. Any routes right now will offer some tooling opportunities since they're all thin and/or absent of ice...

If you do end up climbing thin routes, don't mash them to bits. Leave some ice for the next climber... :-)


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Dec 26, 2013
NJ

got the guidebook.
won't be leading.
yes, I'll be considerate.

Thanks, Dad(s).


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Dec 26, 2013
Rumney

And don't forget to wear clean underwear!

-- Mom


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By Jeffrey Dunn
Administrator
Dec 26, 2013

Michael C wrote:
Thanks, Dad(s).


Nice way to treat people who took the time to give you some guidance.

Also, in case you aren't reading the other site:

"Please remember that "mixed" climbing, especially in the Catskills, generally requires that things be pretty well frozen. Many holds and gobs of mud, moss and turf that alot of these routes use requires them to be frozen together. Pleas use your head when playing on these lines as they can easily be altered/ruined if key holds get ripped off. That said, Unexpected Acceleration and the Bully variation in the Playground might be good, routes just north of the Pground too, Porcelien Pillar will go even without the pillar and gives some cool moves to climb over a small roof twenty feet up (where the pillar normally fills in). Have fun!"

Dad


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Dec 26, 2013
NJ

Wormly81 wrote:
Nice way to treat people who took the time to give you some guidance. Also, in case you aren't reading the other site: "Please remember that "mixed" climbing, especially in the Catskills, generally requires that things be pretty well frozen. Many holds and gobs of mud, moss and turf that alot of these routes use requires them to be frozen together. Pleas use your head when playing on these lines as they can easily be altered/ruined if key holds get ripped off. That said, Unexpected Acceleration and the Bully variation in the Playground might be good, routes just north of the Pground too, Porcelien Pillar will go even without the pillar and gives some cool moves to climb over a small roof twenty feet up (where the pillar normally fills in). Have fun!" Dad


yes, I read that message on NEICE.com and responded.

clear on the ethics, guys. was just looking for route suggestions.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Dec 26, 2013
Rumney

Michael C wrote:
yes, I read that message on NEICE.com and responded. clear on the ethics, guys. was just looking for route suggestions.


I didn't think anything of your comment. All in good, usual MP sarcastic jest. ;-)

Being "new" to something the more experienced members here tend to offer above/beyond kind of beta, including local ethics stuff. No one was assuming your level of knowledge, other than what one might expect someone "new" to the activity may or may not know.

Have fun!


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Dec 26, 2013
NJ

all good my man, all good.


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By Gunkiemike
Dec 26, 2013

What day(s) specifically will you be in the Catskills? I'd like to line something up for Sun or Monday.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Dec 26, 2013
Rumney

Gunkie Mike's only interested because you have the guidebook and no inclination to steal his leads. :p


[in all seriousness, if you have a chance to climb with Mike - do it!!]


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Dec 26, 2013

Why not head up to the dacks? The ice should be pretty good this weekend.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Dec 26, 2013
Rumney

divnamite wrote:
Why not head up to the dacks? The ice should be pretty good this weekend.


Ooh ooh! Can I answer?!

"By Michael C
From New Jersey"

The ADKs are a long haul from NYC/NJ, for the same reason I rarely head over to New Hampshire (4-5 hour drive).


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By Jesse Newton
From catskills
Dec 26, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills

sportmans wall. hobo. theres lots of ice on the slopes of hunter mtn


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By Gunkiemike
Dec 26, 2013

Jesse Newton wrote:
theres lots of ice on the slopes of hunter mtn


True, but you have to buy a lift ticket. And step aside whenever a skier goes by. :-)


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Dec 28, 2013
NJ

On Friday, a few routes were in at Stony Clove on the West Side. The Entertainer was in good shape, save for a bit of thinness near the top. Little Black Dike was in, and thick. About 3 parties got on it before us, so some parts were a bit like a snow cone. But otherwise, it climbed and protected well. I did a dry tool line called The Workshop, M3 with Alan Kline (who put up the route). Really cool line. For every 3-4 moves there's a good resting stance. Pretty spicy towards the top with a wide smearing stem below a roof and some rather sketchy gear placements. But otherwise a good workout.

@ gunkiemike - drop me a line about partnering up. I think we met last year in Stony's parking lot.


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By Nick Goldsmith
Dec 28, 2013

I thought all the routes in the Catskills were WI6?


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By Kevin Shon
Dec 30, 2013
This guy...

re: Daks quality - was up there this weekend (12/29). I live in southern jersey - definitely worth the haul. Ice is great right now, only to become stellar after this next round of wintery wx coming down the pipe post new year's.


What were conditions like in the Cats?


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