Catskills Ice question

I was wondering what the top rope access is like (if any) for Buttermilk Falls, Stoney Clove west, Moore's Bridge, and Devil's Kitchen? I've read different statements in the guidebook and websites.

When I've climbed in the kitchen, top rope access from the road seemed feasible, albeit potentially sketchy without a small static line for safety...

I've read conflicting info for accessing moore's bridge for TR. As for Stoney clove west and Buttermilk, haven't read anything...

Would appreciate any insights...and beta while you're at it!

Thanks!
Chris

Chris72 wrote:I was wondering what the top rope access is like (if any) for Buttermilk Falls, Stoney Clove west, Moore's Bridge, and Devil's Kitchen? I've read different statements in the guidebook and websites. When I've climbed in the kitchen, top rope access from the road seemed feasible, albeit potentially sketchy without a small static line for safety... I've read conflicting info for accessing moore's bridge for TR. As for Stoney clove west and Buttermilk, haven't read anything... Would appreciate any insights...and beta while you're at it! Thanks! Chris

Stoney Clove West will be the most challenging to get up on without leading. Tackle it at extreme climbers' right and be prepared for steep, loose terrain above the climbs.

Moores - can get up on left side (easiest if you go WAY left, like before the red shale road cut, but the steep sod immediately left of Moores Gully can be done too), or the right (easy once you gain the terrace that's 15 ft above the stream. 70 m rope highly desired.

BMF - I've heard one can descend in the woods to the east of the ravine (climbers' left) which means one can get to the top of any/all flows without leading.

Kitchen - follow the trail down steepening woods from the snowplow turnaround. Static rope to anchor on trees, rap in.

Easy TR areas = Asbestos, Herdman, Hobo, Kaaterskill Chasm, Stoney East.

Gunkiemike nailed it, his answer is pretty much dead on. Only thing I would recommend is to not go toprope anything in Buttermilk Falls. It's one of the longest approaches in the Catskills and is traditionally a lead-only climb, it's really not a great place to go for toproping. Any of the tiers you would be toproping would most likely interfere with people looking to climb through and continue to the top.

Best to walk up around and down for top rope. Hobo wall filling in nicely as of today, I'm two minutes away. Tricams and double swing trees mostly. Serve as anchors in Catskills

Follow up question! Is 100' of static line sufficient for TR anchors at stoney Clove East, or will I need to invest in screws if I'd like to go without my rack bearing friends?

100' is plenty. Probably overkill even. I recall only using two 25' cordellettes for pretty much everything actually.

FWIW toproping off screwsvcan be a dodgy proposition, especially in bright sunlight. I've seen screws melt out in the time it takes a follower to clean a pitch. If you do ever wind up on a screw TR anchor, then cover the hangers with snow.

Screw anchors for TR'ing is really, really uncommon in the Catskills. Use the trees.