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Cat's Pajamas 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Oct 25, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1, a short but interesting pitch.
Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

After a so-so first pitch this climbs into a great handcrack then eases into some "interesting" climbing above.

Pitch one: Starts in a left facing wall, right of Reunion with a large flake. Climb the flake and then trend right to a good belay below an obvious crack in a dihedral.

Pitch two: An excellent and stiff hand crack, be sure to go right at a right trending crack (easy to miss) otherwise you will be on a spicy 5.9 variation. With a 70m you can make it damn near the top otherwise belay where appropriate.

Pitch three: Without a 70m rope on P2 belay where appropriate and make a 3rd trivial pitch to the top. Beware loose flakes!

Finish by scrambling around to a ledge to the Coke Bottle rap anchors, 2 raps with a 70m to the ground.


Location 

Starts climbing large flake right of Reunion start.


Protection 

Doubles to C4 #3 are nice.



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The whole climb, should be self-explanatory after the business p2 crack climbing.
The whole climb, should be self-explanatory after ...
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By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 25, 2012

FA: Jonathan Bjorklund, Bill Claggett, and Bob Ladd. 1971. First pitch is pretty good, second pitch is amazing with a nice airy step across!