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Cathedral Peak

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John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route) T 
Panic Pillar T 
Southeast Buttress T 

Cathedral Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,911'
Location: 37.8476, -119.405 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 178,176
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 22, 2006
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Description 

One of the most stunning peaks in Yosemite, Cathedral is blessed with some great moderate climbing. The approach takes about an hour and is long far enough from the road and hiking trails to give you a little peace (often to be shared with many climbers - start early or get a permit and camp at the base).

The summit is a small block big enough for a couple people to squeeze on. Their might be bolts on the top, but usually not. Downclimbing off the summit block can be scary, but John Muir did it in 1869, so you can too.

It's a great big lightning rod - get off ASAP if thunder comes your way. Other than descending, escaping up and right is the usually possible until you get to talus.

Getting There 

From the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, take the main trail for 10 minutes. Soon after a set of stone steps look, look for a major climbers trail branching left (see photo). Do not get suckered into an earlier, smaller path that follows the stream. Keep on the trail until it fades away near the base Cathedral Peak. Pick the easiest path to the lowest point of the southeast buttress.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.9 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cathedral Peak:
John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route)   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 400'   
Southeast Buttress   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Classics in Cathedral Peak

Featured Route For Cathedral Peak
The lower handcrack and stance where you clip the piton.

Panic Pillar 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak
Panic Pillar is the closest pillar to the summit of Cathedral. The route described here is on the west face of the pillar. Start by climbing a steep handcrack until you gain a small stance on the pillar itself. Clip a mangled rusty piton , you can also fiddle a small cam or nut in to backup the pin. This is the last pro on the route.Make some exposed face moves to gain another small ledge . From here you are fully committed on the pillar. You must make two distinct 5.9 moves on mostly positive k...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cathedral Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Cathedral Peak! enough said.
Cathedral Peak! enough said.
cathedral peak
cathedral peak
The graceful slab of Cathedral's SE buttress.
The graceful slab of Cathedral's SE buttress.
Megan on the Cathedral Peak summit, looking down at Eichorn Pinnacle and one of the Cathedral Lakes
Megan on the Cathedral Peak summit, looking down a...
Cathedral Peak (R) and Eichorn's Pinnacle (L).  View from the south on the Matthes Crest approach.
Cathedral Peak (R) and Eichorn's Pinnacle (L). Vi...
Cathedral as approached from Echo Ridge
Cathedral as approached from Echo Ridge
The view from below Cathedral Peak as you start the descent.
The view from below Cathedral Peak as you start th...
Cathedral Peak from the south; Eichorn Pinnacle is on the left
Cathedral Peak from the south; Eichorn Pinnacle is...
view from the top of Cathedral Peak July, 2009
view from the top of Cathedral Peak July, 2009
Cathedral Peak from the mountain shop on Highway 120.
BETA PHOTO: Cathedral Peak from the mountain shop on Highway 1...
Below the chimney pitch, sorting out gear.
Below the chimney pitch, sorting out gear.
Wandering on Cathedral Peak. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Wandering on Cathedral Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
A view of Cathedral Peak (note the climber on the summit).
BETA PHOTO: A view of Cathedral Peak (note the climber on the ...
Steve on the summit of Cathedral Peak with Tuolumne Meadows in the background
Steve on the summit of Cathedral Peak with Tuolumn...
Cathedral Peak
Cathedral Peak
descent as seen from the summit of Eichorn
descent as seen from the summit of Eichorn
Cathedral, viewed from the Dana Plateau
Cathedral, viewed from the Dana Plateau
several parties on the SE buttress
several parties on the SE buttress
Morning light on Cathedral Peak.
Morning light on Cathedral Peak.
Turn left off the main Cathedral Lakes trail here - 10 minutes after your car.
BETA PHOTO: Turn left off the main Cathedral Lakes trail here ...
Stormy view towards Unicorn, Cathedral and Fairview Dome form near Canopy dome on trail to Glen Aulin.
Stormy view towards Unicorn, Cathedral and Fairvie...
ON the hike to Cathedral
ON the hike to Cathedral
The notch between Eichorn Pinnacle and the summit.
The notch between Eichorn Pinnacle and the summit.
Cathedral and Budd Lake from Echo Ridge
Cathedral and Budd Lake from Echo Ridge

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Comments on Cathedral Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jessie Tan
From: Detroit, Michigan
Sep 30, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
Hey everybody,

Climbed Eichorn's Pinnacle on 9/29/2014 and my rope got stuck on the rap from the summit, it's a blue sterling 9.8 70m, was unable to retrieve it from the stance we were at in the 3rd class gully without legit risk.

If anybody is climbing the route soon and able to retrieve it, send me a message and I'll pay you to send it back to me and buy you a new cam ordered to your address. Email tanjessi86@gmail.com.

Thanks,

Jess
By Jonathan hudson
From: baltimore, MD
Aug 25, 2013
GPS cords for the bud lake trailhead. Lat 37 52' 10"N, Long 119 23' 12"W
By Countzen
6 days ago
The climbers route Beta in the Tulumnoe free climbs guide book (supertopo.com/packs/tuolfree.h... ) is pretty off. We were hiking in pre-sunrise and using that book as beta for the approach and got pretty lost. The actual climbers trail has been uploaded by me to wikiloc.com.

wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id...

Also some descent beta since I couldn't find visuals anywhere.
wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id...