*Cathedral Ledge Rock Climbing
The upper part of the route. Taken from the cottag...
Cathedral Ledge is the epicenter of Trad climbing in New Hampshire. Because of its easy access and routes of all grades and styles, Cathedral has been deservedly popular for decades. Its proximity to North Conway assures that Cathedral has its own scene and it is not uncommon to be sharing the cliff with old timers who put up routes back in the 60s, 70s, and 80s.
Though new route potential exists, the classic lines receive most of the attention. Routes like Thin Air
(5.9), and The Prow
(5.11) may see many ascents each weekend. Cathedral has something for everyone as the cliff offers long multi pitch routes, face climbs, splitter cracks, and even a few quality sport routes. From short practice climbs at the North End to the soaring Yosemite-style aid routes of the Central Wall, everyone can be happy at Cathedral Ledge.
Guidebooks for Cathedral abound, but Jerry Handren's 2012 guidebook is probably the most useful. Ed Webster's Rock Climbs of the White Mountains
provides excellent history for the area.
trained on the cliff can be found at www.neclimbs.com
, as can notes about conditions, routes, etc.
For gear and/or beta spray, head to either IME or EMS in North Conway. Both outfits offer guide services and climbing gear. The Frontside Grind has great coffee.
The seasons at Cathedral Ledge mirror those of all the areas in New England. Fall is the best. Summer can be good, as the cliff gets shade in the afternoon. Spring often brings seeping rock, so there is a 50/50 chance that your route will be dry. Winter offers amazing ice climbs.
Find North Conway on the map of New Hampshire. Cathedral Ledge and its sister cliff, Whitehorse Ledge, can be seen from town. Follow roads to the base of the cliff. This sounds vague, but finding the cliff is really easy...of the two tall cliffs you see, Cathedral is the right one.
Many visitors are surprised to learn that the road along the base of the cliff winds its way up to the top. The existence of this road transforms what seems like a daunting cliff to convenient crag. Both The Airation Buttress
and The Barber Wall
can also be accessed by a short stroll down trails from the top. Some routes are accessed from rappel off the top of the cliff. Top rope sessions at the top of the cliff are also common on routes such as Camber/Reverse Camber
, The Faux Pas Arete
, and Peanut Gallery Flake
After you have topped out on a full-length route, it is possible to hitch a quick ride down from one of the many tourists who have been ogling at you from the tourist overlook. If you do catch a ride, be prepared to answer many, many questions about the strange and mysterious sport of rock climbing.
The road closes in the winter, leaving ice climbers with the unenviable task of having to walk down.
Many popular aid routes on the cliff are completely clean (The Prow
, Mines of Moria
) and do not require hammering at all.
Many of the "nailing" routes (Frenchman's Fury
, among others), have gone free. Before you pound a pin on a route, do some research to see if the route has gone free. If it has, then do not hammer pins or place bashies. The rock is a precious resource, and a few errant whacks with a hammer could ruin a free route for eternity.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
184 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',33],['3 Stars',93],['2 Stars',50],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in *Cathedral Ledge
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for *Cathedral Ledge:
Featured Route For *Cathedral Ledge
The Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: *Cathedral Ledge
: The North End
The first free Grade V in the East(excepting some pendulum rappels)The route has had some repeats.The first ascent took a total of 18 hours climbing time.P1)Climb first pitch of Recluse 5.10d 80'P2) Scramble up and left over ledges to base of inside corner,2nd pitch of They Died Laughing (3rd class) 90' P3)Travers left and up cracks to large ledge,move to left of ledge 5.3 80 P4 Hand traverse left off ledge to a good ledge top of Karens Variation 5.9+ 50'P5) Go along the ledge and down climb to...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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