Cathedral Aid Ladders

Poo pop

Hey Will, after talking to you and Joe below highway on your way out yesterday we walked by Remission and had the exact same thought. Strange line and damn close to Remission direct. Is it really just a bolt ladder or is someone trying to free it?

Nothing says chop like a silly new bolt ladder next to a classic ice route. This one needs to be nipped in the bud before it goes to the top.

WillCarey wrote:Real Quick Saw a guy bolting an aid pitch just right of Remission Direct yesterday. Seems like it might be worth the heated discussion that will inevitably follow.

Why not have this discussion with him first?

If it is enough of a squeeze job that it affects the way Remission climbs then the discussion to remove it should be had. If not then climb it or STFU

Chop chop

IMO Bolt ladders for aid lines in crag like Cathedral are obviously ridiculous. It's not a big cliff and you can rap down to the seam if you really want to aid it. Or hook up.

Jim

3 bolts ain't exactly a ladder. Climb it before judgeing it might be a good way to go... ever climb the prow? that has 3 bolts in a row. heck DMZ has a 2 bolt ladder on it @ the 5.9 crux. The cliff has a long history of aid bolts.

I don't know what's going on in NH these days, but show the perp this...

Will that STFU part was not aimed at you with animosity it is simply my standard line for bitching about a route that someone has not actually climbed. climb it or STFU. it is just a saying and not to be taken personaly. simeler to shut up and climb..

If you have ever drilled from aiders it is very evident that the 2 crux bolts on DMZ just left of the siagons were drilled that way and not even top stepped.

The only time I feel it is ok to seriously bitch about a climb that you have not actually climbed is when the offending climb is enough of a squeeze job that it affects the way an existing climb climbs. For instance if this climb is close enough to Remission that you clip bolts from remission or feel drawn to traverse a body length or so over clip and then traverse back into remission then I would agree 100% to chop it without bothering to climb the new route. You would probobly have to actually get on Remission to make that judgement accuratly. If these bolts do not affect any existing climbs you need to actually climb the route before you can truely judge it.

Thats my story and I am stickin to it ;)

WillCarey wrote:The DMZ acronym escapes me though.

It's an acronym for Demilitarized Zone. But I think Nick was talking about the route on the Thin Air Face, so named because of it's proximity to the Saigons. mountainproject.com/v/dmz/1…

WillCarey wrote:If the route I mentioned was a quality line that had been waiting to be climbed I would feel differently. It's not.

Is there any good reason not to climb it, just to be sure? I respect your assessment and your opinion. And while I take the opinion seriously, I'd take it a lot more seriously if you said: "I climbed it and the moves are nothing spectacular, contrived, without interested gear placements, and it's clear this is a squeeze job. It doesn't even link up with [established aid line]"

Also, it does seem like a discussion with the climber is warranted. Maybe it's a direct start to *his* old aid line, and had been intended to be put in for decades before he got around to it. Speaking to him will make the intent clear, which will also make an informed judgement easier.

Isn't there a variation aid climb to Highway in this area ??

Nick Goldsmith wrote:Will that STFU part was not aimed at you with animosity it is simply my standard line for bitching about a route that someone has not actually climbed. climb it or STFU. it is just a saying and not to be taken personaly. simeler to shut up and climb.

[Internet etiquette note -- say things online in a manner you would in person. STFU are fightin' words, in any social circle. "Shut up and climb", "Climb your own climb", "Climb on", "Don't worry, be happy" would be more representative of someone who doesn't want what they're saying to be taken personally. Also see: 'internet muscles', 'internet tough guy']

Kevin Heckeler wrote: [Internet etiquette note -- say things online in a manner you would in person. STFU are fightin' words, in any social circle. "Shut up and climb", "Climb your own climb", "Climb on", "Don't worry, be happy" would be more representative of someone who doesn't want what they're saying to be taken personally. Also see: 'internet muscles', 'internet tough guy']

STFU kev.. just sit back and make some popcorn ;)

Btw you could post over on NEclimbs where the actual Conway locals post and figure out exactly what the route is in pretty short order.

Jake D. wrote: STFU kev.. just sit back and make some popcorn ;)

Suck it ass munch. Nothing personal. Keep screwing that chicken.

Jake D. wrote: .... you could post over on NEclimbs where the actual Conway locals post ...

No!!!!! Don't turn NEClimbs into Reddit, Jake! ;-)

Extra points if you mention the x-position.

Peter Jackson wrote: No!!!!! Don't turn NEClimbs into Reddit, Jake! ;-) Extra points if you mention the x-position.

I can't wait to see how the aid ladder gets blamed on sport climbing!

cjdrover wrote: I can't wait to see how the aid ladder gets blamed on sport climbing!

Champ might have a 3 page rant about how people don't know anything about anything except for him because he's done it all and didn't die... or something.. i don't know wtf he says

Jake D. wrote:Champ might have a 3 page rant about how people don't know anything about anything except for him because he's done it all and didn't die... or something.. i don't know wtf he says

<3

What's the verdict?