Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Scott Stevenson & Alan Cattabriga |
Page Views: | 2,506 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | M Sprague on Feb 5, 2013 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Often overlooked, as it is an extension to a trad pitch and overshadowed by its big brother 5.14s and the very popular and accessible 5.10 sport route Waimea, this is one of the earliest routes on Waimea and is a great line, well deserving of attention
If you have gear (up to 4") head up the '"interesting" That Crack 10a, or climb up the sport route Great White 13a, just to the right. If you don't have gear, but want to keep the start easier, with some rope finagling you could do Waimea 10d and traverse left.
Once you are at the Great White/That Crack anchors, extend with a long sling or two to reduce drag and stem left into the corner. Commit to the undercling flake arching out left which takes you out above the overhanging arete of Liven' Astro. Small fingers are nice for the undercling and a little reach is nice too, so big and small even out the difficulty.
If you have gear (up to 4") head up the '"interesting" That Crack 10a, or climb up the sport route Great White 13a, just to the right. If you don't have gear, but want to keep the start easier, with some rope finagling you could do Waimea 10d and traverse left.
Once you are at the Great White/That Crack anchors, extend with a long sling or two to reduce drag and stem left into the corner. Commit to the undercling flake arching out left which takes you out above the overhanging arete of Liven' Astro. Small fingers are nice for the undercling and a little reach is nice too, so big and small even out the difficulty.
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