Catch Me Quick
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Start up a finger crack that leads to the crux, and the only 10b part, 7m off the deck. The rest of the climb is more of a 5.9 with various finishes, the mantle finish is more exciting.
Smoke Bluffs - Burgers and Fries
You can protect the crux with a orange Metollius cam, or a DMM walnut.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
As described, this route is listed as "Catch Me Quicker" in the Bourdon guide and "Catch Me Quick" in the McLane guide.
I also placed an orange Metolius at the crux, but wasn't happy with it. Two lobes were fully engaged, two were flaring. If I fell, the gear popped and I'd decked, I wouldn't be mad at the gear for it. On my way down I tried some nuts in that slot, found a WC #8 placed sideways was the only thing I had on my rack that would inspire confidence.