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Cap Rock - Southeast Face
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Catch A Falling Star 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Herb Laeger and Dennis Knuckles, March 1978
Page Views: 1,873
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Jon Freriks having fun 2/20/10

Description 

This fun pitch is on the sunny south side of Cap Rock. Climb an obvious right angling crack until it peters out, then make a 5.8 face move past a bolt to the top. This route is deservedly popular and odds are you will find a gang of people here.

Protection 

Gear to 2", one bolt.


Photos of Catch A Falling Star Slideshow Add Photo
"Catch a Falling Star". Takes the upper diagonal crack. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Catch a Falling Star". Takes the upper ...
East Coast Larry on the last section of the route.  He is stretching for a hold,not wanting to leave his crack...  A very fun climb.  Can be top-roped.  There are two bolts at the top (where the white hat is in the picture, upper right side...)
East Coast Larry on the last section of the route....
Gary Molzan leading Catch a Falling Star, February 1986!
Gary Molzan leading Catch a Falling Star, February...
The rock was all ours on this cold and windy December day in 2004.
The rock was all ours on this cold and windy Decem...
Catch a Falling Star
Catch a Falling Star
Dick reaching the top...
Dick reaching the top...
Anne, following "Catch a Falling Star."
Anne, following "Catch a Falling Star."

Comments on Catch A Falling Star Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 14, 2014
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 11, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A nice mix of crack and face climbing with a short walk from the car. Two stars out of five.
By Woody Stark
Jan 21, 2004

A great route that deserves all the stars it can get.
By Kevin Jeffreys
Jan 27, 2004

Gear can be a bit trick for the beginning leader. But the easy stances make ample opportunity to fiddle around and get the pro set right! Great climb to learn how to slot pro in behind features.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun traversing route starting out with a few feet of face then to the crack and then to face. Continuing out and up from the finish bolt seemed a bit harder than continuing right to a second bolt then up. The crack can be a bit shallow in its acceptance of pro.
By Taryn
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 17, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bring tri-cams on lead....seriously! For real. Come on...you know you want to.
By Blitzo
Sep 29, 2006

I'll give it two, Woody!
By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

YEs I agree tricams worked great for me. Very fun route to do at sunset.
By Brian in SLC
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Might mention in the description that the top anchor is two bolts but not a rappel anchor. The git off is to downclimb off on the backside and then climber's left around to the front.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this was one of the best climbs on my trip; also did Fun Stuff and Double Cross by way of comparison. Correctly graded at 5.8.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The traverse might be height dependent, as a taller person might have an easier time reaching the good footholds. Stellar route, and not as difficult as I was expecting for my first jTree 5.8 lead. This seemed at least a number grade easier than Buissonier! Maybe the crux here was the face moves.
By Canon
Jan 15, 2012

Great climb. Led it with all cam placements under 2", would probably take tri-cams or nuts. Good photo ops. Lots of traversing.
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Dec 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

In reply to Joseph's post about being height dependent..

I'm about 5'5 and I don't think it was height dependent at all. Really good smears and foot holds on this route. I think I only used up to .75 C4 on this route and 2 solid nut placements. Crux for me was right before the anchors
By Brian Chastain
Jan 14, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this a while back, but I was commenting on Slim Pickings and decided to mention I thought this was a great route too. Straight forward and fun.