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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Grey Giant Area
> Fortress
Catapult
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 3.7 from 6
votes
Routes in The Fortress
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Arms Control T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Catapult T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Grubstake Days T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure), The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Natural Selection T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Hampshire, Naturally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Old Man Down the Road, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sublimation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tower of Godliness - Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weekend Warrior T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Suzanne Sanbar |
| Page Views: | 1,885 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Nov 2, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is one of the best I have climbed at J-Tree. Challenging moves on solid rock for about 140' makes this a five star classic.
Begin about 30' left of a vertical crack that does not reach the ground to gain a horizontal discontinuous seam after 10' of easy climbing. Traverse right on thin edges to a point where the seam ends about 10 feet from where the vertical crack begins. A 0 TCU protects committing face moves (5.11) to a huge horn. Turn the corner and ascend the flared, vertical crack (initially thin pro) that becomes wider and lower angle for close to 100'.
A bolted anchor with slings is used to rappel off of the route.
Double ropes work well to minimize rope drag and to rap.
Begin about 30' left of a vertical crack that does not reach the ground to gain a horizontal discontinuous seam after 10' of easy climbing. Traverse right on thin edges to a point where the seam ends about 10 feet from where the vertical crack begins. A 0 TCU protects committing face moves (5.11) to a huge horn. Turn the corner and ascend the flared, vertical crack (initially thin pro) that becomes wider and lower angle for close to 100'.
A bolted anchor with slings is used to rappel off of the route.
Double ropes work well to minimize rope drag and to rap.
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