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(3) Catwalk Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Clot T 
Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) S 
Crack-A-No-Go T 
Crossroads S 
Cruel Sister T 
Delicatessen T 
Dire Wolf T 
Erogenous Zone T 
Full Court Press S 
Greasy Spoon T 
Ground Zero T 
Last Chance T 
Lost Souls T 
Mid-Life Celebration S 
Northern Lights S 
Old And In The Way T 
Patent Leather Pump T 
Pearl, The T 
Pet Cemetary S 
Prometheus T 
Quasar T 
Religious Fervor T 
Rising Star T 
Satan's Awaiting T 
Sitting Duck T 
Southern Cross T 

Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Frizzel, Tom Egan, Dec 1988
Page Views: 2,383
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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The Catalyst on sight. Andy Burr Photo.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A continuous onslaught of challenging moves lead to a thin crux just before the anchors. Catalyst climbs like a continuous series of intriguing boulder problems broken by ledge rests. As a (sport) classic in its own right, it however feels to me to be a bit close to the ultra-classic Cruel Sister (trad) on the right.

Location 

Catwalk cliff (south side of the Crooked River). On the collumn just left of Cruel Sister.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) Slideshow Add Photo
More Catalyst.  Andy Burr Photo.
More Catalyst. Andy Burr Photo.
The old 2nd bolt (which took a lot of whips!) and ...
The old 2nd bolt (which took a lot of whips!) and ...
James drilling a new bolt on Child Abuse.
James drilling a new bolt on Child Abuse.

Comments on Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vernon Stiefel
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This bolted basalt column is one of the best in the Lower and Upper Gorge. The technical aspect of the route is similar to "Try To Be Hip" but the difficult moves are slightly more powerful and more numerous.

Even though the route is adjacent to "Cruel Sister" it remains an independent line to the anchors.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 9, 2011

Awesome TR after Cruel Sister. The top crux is a heartbreaker after the struggle below.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Apr 3, 2013

this routes doesn't seem to be insanely pumpy. But every time I come down from it, I feel about as exhausted as if I had just wrestled a bear.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This thing is awesome!! Beat the crowds in the park and head to the lower gorge for some column slapping and airy compression moves.

The second bolt is just out of reach from the low clipping stance so don't blow it making the move to clip it... the ground seems pretty close there.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Also called Child Abuse in the Watt's book.

Having the draws hanging really helps on this one.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 22, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Awesome route. Some of the best arete pinching you'll find anywhere.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 1, 2015

Child Abuse was a long standing toprope prior to being bolted. It was renamed Catalyst after being bolted.
Like many classics in the lower, originally done before sticky rubber!
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 3, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

April 2015 James King and I went and re-bolted this line. The bolts were 30 years old and were those thin SMC hangars that have had problems elsewhere, and a number of the bolts showed rust. They were probably all pretty safe, but its hard to know until you pull them, and now with big fat stainless half-inchers the climb should be good to go for 50+ years.

Furthermore, Tom Egan and Jeff Frizzel bolted this thing when they didn't really have bolting experience and so most of the bolts were put in rather poor locations if you wanted to hang the draws on lead. In order to be safe, you pretty much needed to hang draws on lower after climbing Cruel Sister, and even then you needed a double draw (or triple draw if you were short) on the 2nd bolt.

I got permission from Tom Egan to move the bolts a little bit into better spots to hang draws on lead. I did not add any bolts, I just made the climb nicer/safer to lead. Most bolts were moved 8-12" down, but a couple were moved more like 18-24" lower. The anchor now also has nice chains added by Alan Collins recently.

Here's what Tom had to say: "I drilled the first bolt on that route by hand,, then immediately went to metolius and bought a bosch power drill,,, it was one of the first routes I ever put up!! You have my 100% backup,support on [replacing and moving the bolts] ,, and I welcome to see this result!"
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