Cat Scratch Fever
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BETA PHOTO: Crossley crushing the climb
Walk around the corner from the landing at Dyce's head and take in the improbable overhang of rock. Appreciate the sandstone-esque features of pancakes and chicken heads. Then reach up and break off a piece of the choss.
This route starts from a sit start and works out the massive crack that splits the roof, then ascends it for the unsettling top out.
The rock is sharp, and brittle. Make sure you've gotta spotters to knock you onto the pads.
Oh, and it's only accessible at low tide.
Head climber's left once you reach the landing at the water at Dyce's head. It's the obvious overhung roof with a giant crack and razor blade edges.