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Morning Glory Wall
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Cat Scan 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 1,586
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This rarely climbed route rises for a full rope-length to the left of Zebra/Zion's second pitch, and finishes at the Zebra/Zions mid-climb belay ledge. With surprisingly good knob-covered stone and continuous difficulty, this line makes an excellent diversion from the throngs of topropers below.

The route can be climbed as a 2nd pitch to any of the routes left of Zebra Seam (Gumby, Light on the Path, etc). This is probably wise if the route is near your limit, and is probably the most common approach. Climb whichever route is available and belay at the Gumby anchor.

Alternatively, if you don't mind the rope drag, and can scrounge up 16 draws, the route can be done in one mega pitch from the ground to the ledge, and descended with two 30m rappels.

The first crux hits about 15 feet above the Gumby anchor with tricky arete pinches surmounting the 16 inch roof. Once over the roof, super fun knobs head up and left to a second thin crux over somewhat marginal rock just below the ledge. A few slopey slab moves lead to the ledge.


Location 

Begins above the Gumby anchor, following first the arete, and then the face left of Zebra/Zion's 2nd pitch.


Protection 

16 bolts if done as one pitch. 3 bolt chain anchor atop Gumby, and 2 bolt chain anchor at the ledge.



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By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 11, 2009

maybe im not understanding what you mean by the gumby anchor - i thought this one was an extension to the extension of gumby (the 10c, straight up finish to gumby (morning sky)). thanks!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 12, 2009

Originally this was an extension to Light on the Path, back in the day when Gumby finished on the huecos of Zebra Direct. Now that Gumby has an extension, Morning Sky, this route looks more like an extension to Gumby/Morning Sky, and it makes the most sense to approach it via Gumby/MS. So yes, this is an extension to the extension of Gumby. However for historical purposes, this "extension" was here before the extension of Gumby (!)

If its less confusing, everywhere I said "Gumby anchor" can be replaced with "Morning Sky anchor".

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 28, 2009

did the full pitch in the spring. thanks for the beta, it was great fun.