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Classic frolicking on steep rock with gargantuan holds. Climb it to the roof and clip the fixed draw at 5.11b or pull the roof for the 5.11d full credit.
Start off my hopping up on a ledge to clip the first bolt. From here, pull the small roof on buckets and monstrous underclings, eventually navigating the steeps to a good kneebar. Work out of the kneebar using more underclings and buckets, making sure not to get pumped. Pull another roof and grab hold of some crimps with excellent feet for another no-hands rest (if you get it juuust right). Make a few more big moves to yet another kneebar and shake out the forearms before making the 5.11b crux move- a big move to a sloper. Shake out on jugs under the roof and clip the fixed draw. From here, grope around the lip until a good jug can be found. Make a big move to another jug to pull the roof and enjoy juggy plates to the chains.
Buttress to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco
|By Dan Brayack|
From: Marmet, WV
Jan 25, 2011
four stars to the lip...then grovel!
Jun 10, 2013
Good fun until the roof, which is super awkward. After the fixed draw, you must contend with the tree behind the route by climbing blindly through foliage.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 2, 2013
I didn't find the lip turn or above to be grovelly at all: just a few really fun moves up a finger crack. Great route; do the whole thing!