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 ADVANCED
East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aero Space T 
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The T 
Buenos Aires T 
Casual T 
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof T 
Chesire for President T 
Doin' Life T 
Exorcist T 
Hemroidic Terror T 
It T 
Jaws T 
Love Goddess S 
Military Industrial Complex T 
Nurn's Romp T 
Rings Around Uranus T 
Search for Klingons T 
That T 
Thin Air T 
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wacko Wall T 
What T 

Casual 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Richardson and Pat Cooper, 1974
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: "Casual". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Located on the backside (west face) of the second rock west of the parking area. This is found on the far right side where the rock is very slabby.

This is the first route right of a deep chimney system (Jaws), and climbs well-protected slabby face past three bolts. Higher as the angle eases a runout on easier terrain leads to top. Rap off anchors or continue to the top and walk-off to climber's left.

A fun route, probably the best slab route on this portion of the rock, which isn't saying a whole lot.

Protection 

3 bolts (3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap


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Rick leading Casual
Rick leading Casual

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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The slippery start has the hardest move, right next to a bolt. The bolts are well (but logically) spaced, however, the climbing in between is reasonable. The fear-factor increases as one approaches the second bolt, after clipping one can relax, then the steeper section provides the best moves on this climb.

Top-roping is not a good idea.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 28, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I remember this route feeling a bit on the runout side.
By Adam Kimmerly
Dec 16, 2007

I agree... This one is bordering on an "R" rating. There's a tricky little step-across move to the left right before the third bolt that would send you for a really nasty tumble.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 7, 2008

Yes, this is anything but "well protected." At one logical rest area where one should be able to clip a bolt, one instead needs to make a dicey step across to a way illogical bolt placement. I don't know what the FA party was thinking, but that aside the climbing is good, but be prepared for some runout.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 27, 2008

There is now a two bolt rap anchor after the slab eases off. This can also be used to top-rope this climb, as well as Doin' Life and Search for Klingons, but takes about 20' of runners to remove the rope drag.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Feb 2, 2010

One of the 1st routes I did in the monument. If the opening moves were higher-up , this line would probably be rated 10a. I think it was 5.8 when we did it...Buenos Aires was a 9.