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Climb either Stone Free or Reefer Madness and head up and right of Reefer's anchor (the line Porn Queen extends directly- or slightly left above these anchors). See these routes for descriptions of the 1st 6-7 bolts. Pass some bird dung on this interesting line, and a sizeable runout above an initial bulge that is intimidating on the lead.
Balancy moves and a good head will bring one through the crux mid way between the lower and upper anchors via sloping holds. Doesn't receive much traffic. Has solid rock for hands and feet, although keep the feet firmly pasted on the slightly lichenous rock. A star and a half would be my rating for quality of moves. If cleaner it would be a popular climb.
13-14 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor. Perhaps possible to protect runout with SLCDs, tricams or other small gear.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 12, 2001
I would have to agree with JR. This is a bit spookier than imagined originally. The block/mantle is really done best straight up since it goes well and runs the rope out the least. However, without exception, everyone I know who has climbed it moves left over the block and then back right, adding significantly to the spook factor. I'd opt for the more improbable looking straight up variation. Over the block is also a bit spooky. Without adding ridiculously to the grade, it is best to move right up the broken looking stacks and then step back left, directly over the clip. As JR indicates, paste the feet for smears and trust the friction. I think the birds have moved a number of the nest leftward, making things a bit less tidy than they were a few years ago.