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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
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Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
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Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
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Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
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West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

Casual In The Mind's Eye 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Prothro & Doyle, late 1970s/Weinmann & Baumgartner OCT 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 988
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: From the ledge above West Pole and Conn's West Dir...


P1: Climb the small crack to a good hold where the crack ends below the headwall. Traverse left about 6-8 feet to another small, thin crack behind a small maple tree. Climb the thin crack (crux) using finger locks and jams to the intersection with West Pole Direct Finish at the small roof and much wider crack. Finish on WPDF. 50-55 ft.

While it is a short line, it is good, hard fun and very airy up there. It's a little licheny down low, but the upper crack is brilliant and clean...harder than it looks. Overall it's very much a great way to finish off West Pole.


On the West Pole/Conn's West Ledge below the Summit Ledge.

Start at a finger-crack about 5 feet to the right of the two-bolt anchor atop P2 of West Pole or about 10 feet left of the West Pole/Conn's West rappel tree. The West Pole Direct Finish (WPDF) crack will be about 10-15 feet to the left of this spot.

To descend, scramble down the back side off the top and down to the Summit Ledge.


Take small cams down to #00 TCUs/Master Cams and small wires/micro nuts. A #4 BD Cam or equivalent is helpful for the brief wide section at the top of WPDF. You can sling one of the large blocks on the top of the formation for your belay anchor.

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