Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor.
There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one...
Big nut at start, 4 bolts, 2 bolt/fixed wires and biners lower off (kind of sketchy! too cheap for hangers!!).
From: boulder, co
Oct 1, 2007
Great climb! I thought the bolts were well placed... the cruxes were well protected and the runout bits were easier. The anchor at the top seemed pretty reasonable: the cables were in good shape and there were washers and glue keeping them in place.