Castle Rocks new routes

Anyone know anything about the bolted routes just past and around the corner from Shock and Awe? Like 3-4 well bolted lines up a steep slab?

For specifics ask Dottie at Smokey Mountain Campground, she is the host, and helped with the fa's.
Several climbs from 5.9 to 5.6
A couple pieces of gear to supplement the bolts.

BackAtItAgain wrote:Anyone know anything about the bolted routes just past and around the corner from Shock and Awe? Like 3-4 well bolted lines up a steep slab?

cool - thanks you guys.. about what they looked like..

There is also a new route between Pollo Negro and the first pitch of High Road. Route is actually about 50' right (north) of High Road. Eight or so bolts, could use some cams down lower. I thought it was 5.10 - but will be embarrassed if the first ascent people come back and call it 5.8.

Brad Shilling has also put up some nice new lines on Comp Wall - in the two or three pitch range. They are right of and lower down the wall from Redrum. I will see him soon and get some details about these new longer routes.

There's a (new?) route left of the chimney by North Face and Milk Toast on Castle Rock. I couldn't find it in Bingham's guide or here on the Proj. It's all bolts and feels about 10+/11-. Fun route, anyone know what that is?

As for the new routes on Comp, the new 3 pitch line starts just left of Shakin' Flake and takes a few pieces right off the ground in some obvious cracks and then follows mostly bolts up the face. It's a Shilling route and is called "La Vida," about 5.9. The standout is definitely the amazing patina jugs on the 3rd pitch. It can be rapped with a 60 meter rope.

Brad also bolted a direct finish to Shakin Flake that is supposed to be about 5.10. Not sure if it connects with the first pitch anchors of La Vida but I suspect it does.

Talked to Brad Schilling over the weekend.

The route I mentioned above between Pollo Negro and 1st pitch of High Road (Southeast side of Castle Rock) is called Belle - 5.10c. Great route, shade in the late afternoon.

Daniel Winder says above; There's a (new?) route left of the chimney by North Face and Milk Toast on Castle Rock

This is called No Climb for Old Men 5.10c

La Vida is the new 3 pitch mostly bolted climb (Earl talks about above - some pro, 5.9, 5.8, 5.9) to the right of Mr. Sneezy on The Comp Wall.

For more and current new route information, you can go online:

Zone 1 nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…

Zone 2 nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…