Long sport climbs up to 140m (460ft) on solid rock with fabulous views are why climbers come here. Huge potential for many more routes. Some trad routes are also being established.
See Rock Deluxe North
or www.freeclimb.co.nz for more details.
Three main areas: Kookmeyers, Buddah Wall and Quiet Earth Wall
2 hours drive from Auckland. Drive towards Coromandel township. 3km before Coromandel town turn right down the 309 road. After a few km's you will pass a Waterworks on your left. 200m past the waterworks will be a turn off on your left down a dirt road labelled 'Castle Rock road'. Follow this dirt road, taking the turn off labelled 'Castle rock'. Don't go down any random forrestry side roads. When you are near Castle Rock (the huge clearly visible set of cliffs) park on the side of the road. Their is a large arrow on the side of the road make out of stones marking the start of the track.
Note: Occasionally the dirt road to Castle Rock is closed due to logging.
Climbing Season For the North Island area.
Weather station 3.2 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Castle Rock
Archibald Baxter 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Oceania
: New Zealand
: ... : Quiet Earth Wall
One of the longest rock routes in the north island. Fully Bolted.Pitch 1 - 21Technical climbing up the facePitch 2 - 19More positive holds than pitch 1Pitch 3 - 16An interesting traverse pitch. Keep heading right and up. Make sure you extend your clips to reduce rope drag. Finish on small ledgePitch 4 - 21Probably the hardest pitch of the climb. Steep and sustainedPitch 5 - 19Easy ground to the top (trending right)...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
The stone arrow marking the start of the track
20m after the stone arrow on the ground. turn righ...
By Cameron Fraser
Apr 19, 2013
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