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Castle Rock

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Castle Rock - Black Tower Buttress 
Castle Rock - East Face 
Castle Rock - North Face 
Castle Rock - South Face 
Castle Rock - Southeast Face 
Castle Rock - Southwest Face 

Castle Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 34.2295, -116.9587 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,552
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Mar 19, 2007  with updates from JCPace
Forecast:
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Clear
80° | 58°
Clear
81° | 58°
Clear
79° | 58°
Partly Cloudy
76° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
69° | 55°
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Anthony Vanleeuwen enjoys stellar granite at Castl...

Description 

An amazing crag, with superb quality granite located on top of a rather steep hill with jaw dropping views of the mountains and Big Bear Lake. It is a rather secluded area although during the summer due to its high elevation and relatively shady setting the area can attract quite a few climbers. Due to its high elevation it can get a bit breezy and chilly in the late afternoon.


Getting There 

This area can be a little tricky to find as it is marked by a rather small trail sign and the parking area is down the road a bit from the trail. But it is off HWY 18 about 1 mile from the dam. If you are coming from Running springs at the dam you would turn right across the dam and drive for about 2 miles the trail is on your right. The parking area is about 200 feet further on HWY 18 on your Left. The trail is a surprisingly steep lung buster, the trail is in good condition though and as you get higher the views get even more amazing. Near the top the trail can get a little hard to find but just follow the footprints in a generally south east direction and you will see the crag. The trail is about a mile, and up until April or even May you can be walking through snow to get to Castle Rock, so dress accordingly.


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',11],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
The Sphynx   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Castle Rock - Southwest Fac...
Chainmail   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Castle Rock - Southeast Fac...
Black Tower Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Castle Rock - East Face
Crossbow   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Castle Rock - Southeast Fac...
The Turret   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 90'   Castle Rock - Southwest Fac...
The Drawbridge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Castle Rock - Southeast Fac...
Ball and Chain   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Castle Rock - Southwest Fac...
Headwall Center   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Castle Rock - Black Tower B...
Cryptology   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Castle Rock - Southwest Fac...
Knightline   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Castle Rock - Southeast Fac...
Headwall Right   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Castle Rock - Black Tower B...
Hard As Your Husband   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Castle Rock - East Face
Castle Crack   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Castle Rock - South Face
The Roofs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Castle Rock - South Face
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Steve nearing the first crux, pulling the roof. Look close you can see the 3rd & 4th bolt just to his right.

Knightline 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Castle Rock - Southeast Fac...
The first bolt is about 40 feet up but you can place gear on easy 5.8+ cracks to the first bolt if you don't feel comfortable running it out. The crux is found when you have to pull the roof although you have very good hands and a bolt right at your waist. The final crux is moving to the last bolt kind of a tricky slab move on thin hands. This one is rope stretcher a 60 m rope was not long enough to lower all the way to the ground. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Nothing but blue skies and tall trees, Castle Rock
Nothing but blue skies and tall trees, Castle Rock
On the way towards Castle Rock looking North towards Big Bear Lake
On the way towards Castle Rock looking North towar...
The climber at the bottom gives perspective to the height of the wall.
The climber at the bottom gives perspective to the...
Big Bear Lake from the top of Castle Rock, Big Bear
Big Bear Lake from the top of Castle Rock, Big Bea...
Looking North alongside Castle Rock with Big Bear Lake in the background. What an amazing place to spend the afternoon
Looking North alongside Castle Rock with Big Bear ...
The summit!! It is flat and big up there.
The summit!! It is flat and big up there.
There was a quite a bit snow up here as of March 18th!
BETA PHOTO: There was a quite a bit snow up here as of March 1...
The view from the top looking towards Boulder Bay
The view from the top looking towards Boulder Bay
Just in case you were unsure, Castle Rock
Just in case you were unsure, Castle Rock
Ahh yes the reward for the slog up the hill!
Ahh yes the reward for the slog up the hill!
Almost looking like a Castle, with the Black Tower on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Almost looking like a Castle, with the Black Tower...
Look out for this sign, hard to see when you are headed East from the dam. But this is the pullout you want to park at.
BETA PHOTO: Look out for this sign, hard to see when you are h...
Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 28, 2007

The trail from the highway to Castle Rock starts at:

N 34 deg 14' 12.1" / W 116 deg 57' 42.2" / Elev 6,845

Castle Rock South Face is at:

N 34 deg 13' 51.3" / W 116 deg 57' 41.9" / Elev 7,330

There is also a small east facing slab about 100 yards northwest of Castle Rock that is an ok place with a couple easier cracks. There is a short seam/lieback there 5.9ish with a hangerless old bolt.

By Ian McG
Jun 17, 2013

Was out hiking today (6/17) and found some gear at some of the bolted anchors on one of the routes on the SW face. PM me with a description to get your gear back to ya.

-Ian

By Nick Tunnicliffe
Aug 3, 2013

I was just out there a week ago or something. The last week of July. I found a draw on the black tower, or whatever it is called. It's by the southeast face. If you want it, let me know what it is.

By mhagny
Aug 28, 2013

On the main trail, when you get to the split-log benches, be sure to go right. This is the main trail, but can escape notice since it goes steep on the rock outcropping there.