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Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.
Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.
22 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Midway 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad
Saber 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Cat Burglar 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad
Winter Solstice 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches
Midway Direct 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad
Canary 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Old Gray Mare 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch
Saints 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
South Face, Jello Tower 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Damnation Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Devil's Fright 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Crack of Doom 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Angel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
MF Overhang 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad
MF Right 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Satanic Verses 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
The Nose, of Jello Tower 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R Trad, 70'
Das Musak 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 60'
Featured Route For Castle Rock
Canary 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c WA : Central-East Cascades & Wen... : ... : Castle Rock
Canary ascends from the right side of Logger's Ledge and reaches the top of Castle Rock in 2 pitches (3 may be necessary with a 50m rope). A memorable line, Canary combines interesting climbing with terrific exposure.Approximately 100 feet to the left of Saber, a short section of face climbing leads to a right facing dihedral and a broken crack system that reaches the left side of Saber ledge. This is the start of Canary.P1. Begin by climbing approximately 15 feet of unprotected face to the b...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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