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L to R R to L Alpha
Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.
Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.
24 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Saber 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Midway 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Midway Direct 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Winter Solstice 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches
Saints 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Old Gray Mare 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch
Canary 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
South Face, Jello Tower 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Damnation Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Angel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Crack of Doom 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
MF Overhang 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Satanic Verses 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
The Nose, of Jello Tower 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad, 70'
Das Musak 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 60'
Featured Route For Castle Rock
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Castle Rock
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge (NSTFL) is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is fairly sustained, with the crux coming about halfway up, surmounting a bulge on crimpy holds and slick, nearly non-existent feet. The protection is decent, and I guess it could be argued that with today's versatile gear, it may not warrant an "R" rating. But I'll leave that up to the hardcores who would know better.Once through the crux, continue on wi...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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