Castle Rock Rock Climbing
Castle rock viewed from across the Wenatchee river...
|Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>|
Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.
Castle Rock faces predominately southwest and can get a lot of sun. The rock is split by Logger's Ledge, a wide ledge halfway up the formation. Climbs on upper Castle begin from this ledge, which is reached by an obvious trail from the parking lot. Climbs on the lower half begin near the parking lot.
To descend from climbs which reach the summit of Castle Rock, follow a good climber's trail off the back of the formation down to Loggers Ledge.
Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
Midway 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Saber 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Canary 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Saints 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Angel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Slim Pickins 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
MF Direct 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Das Musak 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 60'
Featured Route For Castle Rock
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
: Central-East Cascades, Wena...
: ... : Castle Rock
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge (NSTFL) is an athletic route up the glass smooth north side of Jello Tower on Upper Castle Rock. The climbing is fairly sustained, with the crux coming about halfway up, surmounting a bulge on crimpy holds and slick, nearly non-existent feet. The protection is decent, and I guess it could be argued that with today's versatile gear, it may not warrant an "R" rating. But I'll leave that up to the hardcores who would know better.Once through the crux, continue on wi...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Climbing on Castle Rock 1978. Photo by Blitzo.
Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the b...
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock from across the street.
Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s. Photo by Blit...
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock from across the river