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Elevation: 7,800 ft 2,377 m
GPS: 39.9787, -105.4551
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 329,370 total · 1,085/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There Suggest change

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

91 Total Climbs

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Location: Castle Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 47
Acrobatic Overhang
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 89
Standard Bulge
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 31
The Acro-Aerial
Boulder
V14 8B+
 4
Midnight Express
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 269
Bailey's Overhang
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 285
Curving Crack
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 185
Athlete's Feat
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 332
Country Club Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 56
Englishman's Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C
 140
The Gill Crack
Trad, TR, Boulder
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 26
Never a Dull Moment
Trad 4 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
 5
Stingay
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 22
Nobody's Home
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Alien Sex Toy
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Deadline
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acrobatic Overhang
 47
V5 6C Boulder
Standard Bulge
 89
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Acro-Aerial
 31
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Midnight Express
 4
V14 8B+ Boulder
Bailey's Overhang
 269
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Curving Crack
 285
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Athlete's Feat
 185
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Country Club Crack
 332
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Englishman's Home
 56
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gill Crack
 140
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C Trad, TR, Boulder
Never a Dull Moment
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Stingay
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad
Nobody's Home
 22
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Alien Sex Toy
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Deadline
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

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