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Castle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Castle Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,800'
Location: 39.9787, -105.4551 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 267,850
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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Chuck Grossman doing it right in boxer shorts and ...

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Description 

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There 

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

Climbing Season


73 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',11],['5.10',8],['5.11',14],['5.12',11],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',6],['>=V14',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Acrobatic Overhang   V5 6C R     Boulder, 20'   
Standard Bulge   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   
The Acro-Aerial   V7 7A+ PG13     Boulder, 18'   
The Citadel   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   
Free Range   V13 8B     Boulder, 12'   
Cussin' Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bailey's Overhang   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Curving Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
South Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Skunk Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Comeback Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Athlete's Feat   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Country Club Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Englishman's Home   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Atlas Shrugged   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Gill Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Never a Dull Moment   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Nobody's Home   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   
Mexican Picnic   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   
Deadline   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Luke Childers working on the "Dead Line."  Stout line, man.

Deadline 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a  CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
Located on the Southwestern side of Castle Rock, Deadline tackles the improbable looking roof using a combination of crack and sport climbing skills .In essence, the route consists of two complicated boulder problems separated by an insecure kneebar. The lower crux tests your crack climbing skills while the upper crux centers around finger strength, and body tension. Expect difficult clips. Although this route isn't much to look at, the movement and position are among the best I have encounte...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Castle Rock
Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Charles "The Back" Grossman
Charles "The Back" Grossman
Results from 5/20/2011 . <br />Volunteers moved about 20 yards of fill to create a nice, terraced base along the west face.
Results from 5/20/2011 .
Volunteers moved about 20...
The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
BH bouldering at Castle Rock.
BH bouldering at Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.

Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 12, 2008
Because Castle Rock has long been popular for picnicing, I'd say the Forest Service is about fifty years overdue for the installation of outhouses and trashcans. Especially compared to the facilities you find on Forest Service land near other Colorado ski areas.

Get with it Nederland, Boulder, and Eldora Ski Area. It shouldn't just be up to the Forest Service to treat our tourists like valued customers.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 12, 2008
For some reason I seem to remember the city of Boulder has sway over Castle Rock. I remember picnicking there as a very young child with my family and the picnic tables along the creek were all maintained. And I'm certain it was Boulder that did it. In high school we'd leave party's on friday nights and drive up the canyon and bivi where the tables use to be. Great fun.
By Rick Mix
From: Nederland, Colorado
Oct 6, 2008
Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss with chains/rings, 3.5" long. Have fun and be careful out there!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2008
Rick,
You could rap the route on a single rope before, just off to the side. There was a bolted rap already there.
By pfwein
Jun 19, 2010
Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day.
By da old man
Jul 18, 2012
Found green sling, locker, and figure eight in last Sunday's rainstorm.
By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Jul 7, 2014
Best damn crag in BoCan.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Boston, MA
Jul 16, 2014
I climbed West Phase this Monday (14 Jul) all the way to the top and some other routes at the west-part of the crag. I had my Norwegian driver's licence and debit card in the pocket, but now I cannot find it. If anyone finds something like that in the area, please let me know!

(the card is deactivated)

e-mail: kobbenes@yahoo.no
By michalm
Aug 28, 2014
Found a couple stoppers and draws on a popular route at Castle Rock the other day. If you can identify them, they are yours.