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Beef Butte 
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Castle Rock 


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Administrators: grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005

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Castle Rock from my friends land

Description 

This is the largest rock formation in the park at about 300 ft tall. There are a number of good multi-pitch climbs on the rock. This is the first area to be developed at Castle Rocks, and there are about 100 routes on and around this main formation. The majority of the routes are in the 5.7-5.10 range due to the low angle nature of the rock.

The Castle Rocks Sector is not the largest area, however it is the most concentrated. Home to over 125 routes and growing, this sector is the closest and most obvious. Sport routes, trad routes, and multi-pitch routes as long as 300 feet long will be found, as are most of the classics climbs.

A majority of the lines here are sport, while others are mixed. There are a number of pure cracks of great quality, but don't expect to come here for those specifically.

Nearly all routes I can remember have chain anchors. Most routes can be rappelled with one rope, but like the City of Rocks, its best to carry a 70 meter rope, although it is not mandatory.

Approach time is about 5-10 minutes up a well-traveled trail/double track.


Getting There 

This formation is obivous from the parking lot and is about a third of a mile west of the parking lot. There are number of well marked trails to access the different areas, so please stay on the trails and buy a guidebook from one of the local shops in Almo. There are currently 2-3 different guidebooks for the area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Poking Holes in the Firmament   5.6     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   West Buttress - South
Little Time   5.6     Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Castle Rock - South Face
Big Time   5.7     Sport, 400 feet   Castle Rock - South Face
Fruit Pie   5.8     Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Zinger   5.8     Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
It Takes Two   5.8     Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Castle Keep   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Castle Rock - South Face
To Have and to Hold   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wa...
Between Heaven and Earth   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Crimson Arete   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Castle Rock - East Face
Shock and Awe   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   West Buttress - South
Jug-A-Lug   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Crack House
Red Rib   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Diamonds in the Rough   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Castle Rock - South Face
Twinkie   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Jesus and Einstein   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Castle Rock - North Spur
Ho Ho   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Patina Atoll   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Honeymoon in Almo   5.11a     Sport, 100 feet   Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Hairstyles and Attitudes   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Castle Rock - North Spur
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Patty Black gettin' started on Shock and Awe

Shock and Awe 5.10a  ID : Castle Rocks : ... : West Buttress - South
This fun diverse route starts on patina edges. The crux hits low with in a maze of small patina holds facing different directions. Continue on with tricky pull-down edging leading to a steep jug finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in ID


Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
view of the park from my friends land

view of the park from my friends land

After becoming hopelessly stuck in a marsh, we abandoned the truck and resorted to a wheelborrow for transporting gear. Ridiculous!!!

After becoming hopelessly stuck in a marsh, we aba...

Castle Rock.

Castle Rock.