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Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.0456, -90.5202 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,249
Administrators: Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
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No longer private property. See below.

Description 

Castle Rock South is a quaint little crag with a crystal clear trout stream running along side it. There are a couple dozen sport lines of varying quality, and a handful of good trad climbs. Most of the original routes were established in the mid nineties when "manufacturing" was not uncommon, though some modern routes have been added in recent years. Like many of the satellite crags this is a great place to find a project if you can, or it can be a nice getaway from the usual Wisconsin scene a few times a year.

The rock is very similar to that of the Qual Wall at Governor Dodge. Awesome in some spots and total sugar in others. As always with this type of stone, give it at least a day after rain to dry

Like the stream below it, over time The Fishin' Crag has carved out a little niche for itself in the history books of Wisconsin Climbing. The gentle vibe is only complimented by a sort of ancient temple feel that's hard to describe. Unique to say the least.

Getting There 


Castle rock south is located roughly equidistant and south of the towns of Boscobel and Muscoda on hwy. Q. It is marked in the gazetteer.


Climbing Season



Weather station 11.6 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',6],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag):
Buddha Bukstein Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   North Wall
Whitney's Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   Amphitheater Wall
An Eye For an Eye   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 50'   North Wall
Best Jams in Wisconsin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   Amphitheater Wall
Unknown far left   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   North Wall
Rusted Ring Right   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Rusty Ring Wall
Half Hearted   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport   Rusty Ring Wall
The Phoenix   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Wall Right of Rusty Ring Wa...
Kingdom Come   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rusty Ring Wall
Awsome Arete   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Faces
Choss to Treasure   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Faces
Remedy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   North Wall
Rainday   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Faces
Arete Action   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport   Rusty Ring Wall
Barely There   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 35'   Rusty Ring Wall
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)

Featured Route For Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)
Kingdome Come

Kingdom Come 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall
Kingdom Come is one of the more classic bits of sport climbing at the Fishin Crag. It's a little bouldery, a little techy, and a little upsetting that it isn't longer....To the right of Half Hearted. Start on the arete and work up to a jug underneath the roof. Some dynamic moves and serious cranking will take you through the crux and onto the corner/nose feature. A couple more balancy moves gaurd the anchor. Just a beautiful line with engaging moves, that will require a little more than a wi...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag) Slideshow Add Photo
Mr Mix on Kingdom Come.
Mr Mix on Kingdom Come.
Castle Rock Topo
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock Topo
Park here on the north side of the bridge but adhere to the "No parking between signs" sign on the other side of the road.
BETA PHOTO: Park here on the north side of the bridge but adhe...
Tony B on Amazing Arete.
Tony B on Amazing Arete.
The west face of the Fishing crag.  Nearly all the routes are below the treeline which is a very good thing.
The west face of the Fishing crag. Nearly all the...
Near Castle rock.  ...and forgives...
Near Castle rock. ...and forgives...
HUGE bees nest just left of the rap chains from the top of the cliff. I rapped 3 ft from it and dint notice but the second rap did!
HUGE bees nest just left of the rap chains from th...
Sasquatch topping out Whitney's Chimney.
Sasquatch topping out Whitney's Chimney.
Check it out, located across Q and slightly north from Castle Rock crag.
BETA PHOTO: Check it out, located across Q and slightly north ...

Comments on Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 7, 2013
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 16, 2006
Hopefully there are a few souls out there with accurate info on some of the other lines here. If, for nothing else, history's sake.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 9, 2008
For a bit more beta on how to get there, the crag is 8 miles Northeast of Fennimore, WI on HWY Q. Me and my buddy might try to make a trip out there this season to clean and climb. Any new routes will be listed.

Jeremy,

Any advice on getting to the crag without being seen? Does the farmer own the property the crag is on??
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 9, 2008
I spoke with the farmer my first time out there and asked him who owned the bluff. He indicated to me that it was not private land anymore, but was public/city etc property. In the past we have parked on either side of the bridge below the crag and just walked right uphill to it. Several other cars were parked in the same area (for the fishing) and no one seemed to have a problem with it. Still, is a good idea to stay as low key as possible.....
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 12, 2008
Thx for the info Travis. Looks like I'll be going sooner than later.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2008
Wow! That would be awesome if this chunk of stone was officially on public land... Anyway to verify that Travis? Any new routes?
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 15, 2008
I am still trying to get my buddy to go out there with me. He just sees it as another small sandstone crag, why drive so far he says..... I say because I want to check out all the rock in WI and there could be new lines to do. I think I will just get my fiance to go with me. She just started climbing and is just fine for a belay partner. Hopefully I will get out there soon.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 16, 2008
Hey John,

If you find yourself living in Wisconsin, I agree with you that you should find every chunk of good rock to be had, do the routes, that you can, and learn from the ones you can't.

I suppose the fishin crag is a bit remote for some. Uh, hmmmm... I remember a time in Wisconsin where if there was new climbing (or old new climbing) that we went off in search of it with a freakin fervor. Especially if we had directions to the place!

Just thought I would put that in. The fishin crag has something for everyone, unless you are just to damned strong to be bothered with such nonsense.

I do hope that all of you that find it tantalizing will make the push and get down there. You have nothing to lose but a couple of days right? Of course, fall is wonderfull.

JJ
By Tradoholic
Feb 15, 2010
This area can be a bit tricky to find. Park east of the first bridge you come to on Hwy Q (If coming from the east). Further west there is another bridge with a small parking area and a kiosk with a picture of "Castle Rock" with no rock in sight!
By Tradoholic
Jun 18, 2010
This area deserves more attention. Where the Platteville people at? It's not too far for you guys. Some more traffic would make these good lines more appealing. Even though the lines I did the other day probably get climbed only a few times a year I didn't find them too dirty and the bolts are all still looking good.

As Remo would say "GIT ON IT!"

Doesn't seem to be private land, there are zero "No Trespassing" signs and there were people walking around the thing all day long.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 18, 2010
maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sourc...

That is exactly where it is. Just off the highway to the south of the marker.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 16, 2010
This place is a gem! Easy to find and some very fun climbing. Even better than the Qual wall.
By Brian Pederson
May 19, 2011
FYI i talked to the owner today. the land belongs to the DNR. i confirmed this online its listed on the map. routes could use cleaning!
By Tradoholic
May 19, 2011
Very good! Now I wonder about all that other rock I see from the top!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 1, 2011
That's great news about the land ownership. Such a cool little place.
There is also a very long band of steep looking stone not too far to the west of here. Probably just bouldering, but maybe worth looking for.
By AnjayB
Jul 25, 2011
What ever came of this?
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 29, 2011
I climbed there about a month ago no incident, my partner for the day says they have climbed there a couple of times with no incident. That doesn't mean low profile isn't the way to go. DNR doesn't like climbing. ( gibralter )
By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2011
For the record I saw some big pieces of sandstone slightly east of here in between Shemak and Biba Rd. g.co/maps/6ykhe

Also some SE of here off of Snowbottom Rd. g.co/maps/xs33f
I inspected this one briefly but nothing jumped out at me.

Both sites are most likely private land but it never hurts to ask!
By Adam J. Clark
From: Monroe, WA
Sep 9, 2012
This joint still off legal limits?
By Dobbe
Sep 7, 2013
Directions from Madison to Castle Rock South
Directions from Madison to Castle Rock South