Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)

Select Area...
Amphitheater Wall 
North Wall 
Rusty Ring Wall 
South Faces 
Wall Right of Rusty Ring Wall 
White Trash Boulder 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Mound Loop (long)
The long Mound Loop contains some of the most technical singletrack that Wisconsin has to offer. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Over Lode Loop (long)
Not for the faint of heart or body, this loop will challenge even the more experienced riders. Near Barneveld, WI
Mound Loop (short)
The short Mound Loop omits Holy Schist and Home Stretch but adds Basalty Bail. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Over Lode Loop (short)
This ride features Over Lode and the short Mound Loop for a good mix of intermediate singletrack. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag) 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.0456, -90.5202 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 45,144
Administrators: Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Andy Hansen OS
No longer private property. See below.

Description 

Castle Rock South is a quaint little crag with a crystal clear trout stream running along side it. There are a couple dozen sport lines of varying quality, and a handful of good trad climbs. Most of the original routes were established in the mid nineties when "manufacturing" was not uncommon, though some modern routes have been added in recent years. Like many of the satellite crags this is a great place to find a project if you can, or it can be a nice getaway from the usual Wisconsin scene a few times a year.

The rock is very similar to that of the Qual Wall at Governor Dodge. Awesome in some spots and total sugar in others. As always with this type of stone, give it at least a day after rain to dry

Like the stream below it, over time The Fishin' Crag has carved out a little niche for itself in the history books of Wisconsin Climbing. The gentle vibe is only complimented by a sort of ancient temple feel that's hard to describe. Unique to say the least.


Getting There 


Castle rock south is located roughly equidistant and south of the towns of Boscobel and Muscoda on hwy. Q. It is marked in the gazetteer.


Climbing Season


29 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',6],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag):
Buddha Bukstein Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   North Wall
Whitney's Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   Amphitheater Wall
An Eye For an Eye   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 50'   North Wall
Best Jams in Wisconsin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   Amphitheater Wall
Unknown far left   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   North Wall
Rusted Ring Right   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Rusty Ring Wall
Half Hearted   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport   Rusty Ring Wall
The Phoenix   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Wall Right of Rusty Ring Wa...
Kingdom Come   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rusty Ring Wall
Awsome Arete   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Faces
Choss to Treasure   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Faces
Remedy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   North Wall
Rainday   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Faces
Arete Action   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport   Rusty Ring Wall
Barely There   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 35'   Rusty Ring Wall
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)

Featured Route For Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag)
Cold day late fall of 2006

Choss to Treasure 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : South Faces
Head up the slab through some loose rock, some neat moves lead you into the small overhang on positive holds. After pulling over the small roof head out and left though the crux to gain a rest ledge...After clipping the next couple bolts you can either move out to the exposed arete (5.10/11), or head up direct(desperate feeling 5.12ish)....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag) Slideshow Add Photo
Mr Mix on Kingdom Come.
Mr Mix on Kingdom Come.
The west face of the Fishing crag.  Nearly all the routes are below the treeline which is a very good thing.
The west face of the Fishing crag. Nearly all the...
Sasquatch topping out Whitney's Chimney.
Sasquatch topping out Whitney's Chimney.
Near Castle rock.  ...and forgives...
Near Castle rock. ...and forgives...
HUGE bees nest just left of the rap chains from the top of the cliff. I rapped 3 ft from it and dint notice but the second rap did!
HUGE bees nest just left of the rap chains from th...
Park here on the north side of the bridge but adhere to the "No parking between signs" sign on the other side of the road.
BETA PHOTO: Park here on the north side of the bridge but adhe...
Tony B on Amazing Arete.
Tony B on Amazing Arete.
Check it out, located across Q and slightly north from Castle Rock crag.
BETA PHOTO: Check it out, located across Q and slightly north ...
Castle Rock Topo
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock Topo
Comments on Castle Rock South (Fishin' Crag) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 7, 2013
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 16, 2006

Hopefully there are a few souls out there with accurate info on some of the other lines here. If, for nothing else, history's sake.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 9, 2008

For a bit more beta on how to get there, the crag is 8 miles Northeast of Fennimore, WI on HWY Q. Me and my buddy might try to make a trip out there this season to clean and climb. Any new routes will be listed.

Jeremy,

Any advice on getting to the crag without being seen? Does the farmer own the property the crag is on??

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 9, 2008

I spoke with the farmer my first time out there and asked him who owned the bluff. He indicated to me that it was not private land anymore, but was public/city etc property. In the past we have parked on either side of the bridge below the crag and just walked right uphill to it. Several other cars were parked in the same area (for the fishing) and no one seemed to have a problem with it. Still, is a good idea to stay as low key as possible.....

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 12, 2008

Thx for the info Travis. Looks like I'll be going sooner than later.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2008

Wow! That would be awesome if this chunk of stone was officially on public land... Anyway to verify that Travis? Any new routes?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 15, 2008

I am still trying to get my buddy to go out there with me. He just sees it as another small sandstone crag, why drive so far he says..... I say because I want to check out all the rock in WI and there could be new lines to do. I think I will just get my fiance to go with me. She just started climbing and is just fine for a belay partner. Hopefully I will get out there soon.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 16, 2008

Hey John,

If you find yourself living in Wisconsin, I agree with you that you should find every chunk of good rock to be had, do the routes, that you can, and learn from the ones you can't.

I suppose the fishin crag is a bit remote for some. Uh, hmmmm... I remember a time in Wisconsin where if there was new climbing (or old new climbing) that we went off in search of it with a freakin fervor. Especially if we had directions to the place!

Just thought I would put that in. The fishin crag has something for everyone, unless you are just to damned strong to be bothered with such nonsense.

I do hope that all of you that find it tantalizing will make the push and get down there. You have nothing to lose but a couple of days right? Of course, fall is wonderfull.

JJ

By Tradoholic
Feb 15, 2010

This area can be a bit tricky to find. Park east of the first bridge you come to on Hwy Q (If coming from the east). Further west there is another bridge with a small parking area and a kiosk with a picture of "Castle Rock" with no rock in sight!

By Tradoholic
Jun 18, 2010

This area deserves more attention. Where the Platteville people at? It's not too far for you guys. Some more traffic would make these good lines more appealing. Even though the lines I did the other day probably get climbed only a few times a year I didn't find them too dirty and the bolts are all still looking good.

As Remo would say "GIT ON IT!"

Doesn't seem to be private land, there are zero "No Trespassing" signs and there were people walking around the thing all day long.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 18, 2010

maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=&daddr=Co+Rd+Q&geo>>>

That is exactly where it is. Just off the highway to the south of the marker.

By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 16, 2010

This place is a gem! Easy to find and some very fun climbing. Even better than the Qual wall.

By Brian Pederson
May 19, 2011

FYI i talked to the owner today. the land belongs to the DNR. i confirmed this online its listed on the map. routes could use cleaning!

By Tradoholic
May 19, 2011

Very good! Now I wonder about all that other rock I see from the top!

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 1, 2011

That's great news about the land ownership. Such a cool little place.
There is also a very long band of steep looking stone not too far to the west of here. Probably just bouldering, but maybe worth looking for.

By AnjayB
Jul 25, 2011

What ever came of this?

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 29, 2011

I climbed there about a month ago no incident, my partner for the day says they have climbed there a couple of times with no incident. That doesn't mean low profile isn't the way to go. DNR doesn't like climbing. ( gibralter )

By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2011

For the record I saw some big pieces of sandstone slightly east of here in between Shemak and Biba Rd. g.co/maps/6ykhe

Also some SE of here off of Snowbottom Rd. g.co/maps/xs33f
I inspected this one briefly but nothing jumped out at me.

Both sites are most likely private land but it never hurts to ask!

By Adam J. Clark
From: Monroe, WA
Sep 9, 2012

This joint still off legal limits?

By Dobbe
Sep 7, 2013

Directions from Madison to Castle Rock South
Directions from Madison to Castle Rock South