These are beautiful rocks right on the ocean. The rock quality is good, not soft or loose. It varies from juggy, jagged holds up away from the water to slopers on the wet side. The climbs are short, but there are multiple traverse possibilities.
Park along Ocean avenue and walk down Castle Rock Lane. Most of the climbs are down the stone stairs, some are up on the main rock.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock, Marblehead
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock, Marblehead:
The Chestnut V0 4 PG13 Boulder, 5'
Wavy Nugget V0+ 4+ PG13 Boulder, 5'
The Shield V1+ 5 PG13 Boulder, 15'
Featured Route For Castle Rock, Marblehead
The Shield V1+ 5 PG13 MA : Castle Rock, Marblehead
Start down to the left on the corner of the turret. Move right using juggy, flake holds. The ledge is off, only use feet on wall. There is a small, tough move in the middle with two small 45* crimps by the bottom left side of the smooth "Shield." Next with left foot on the discolored corner piece of the block in the puddle(rest of block is off route), get a high foot on the small ledge under the right wing of the bird, and mantle up with right hand on the right side of the blocky hold by the rig...[more] Browse More Classics in MA