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Castle Rock, Marblehead

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buy the Ticket, Take the Ride 
Chestnut, The 
Panda Express 
Shield, The 
Wavy Nugget  
Unsorted Routes:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Castle Rock, Marblehead Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.4993, -70.834 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,778
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Devine on May 20, 2012
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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These are beautiful rocks right on the ocean. The rock quality is good, not soft or loose. It varies from juggy, jagged holds up away from the water to slopers on the wet side. The climbs are short, but there are multiple traverse possibilities.

Getting There 

Park along Ocean avenue and walk down Castle Rock Lane. Most of the climbs are down the stone stairs, some are up on the main rock.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Castle Rock, Marblehead
Rock Climbing Photo: The Shield.

The Shield V1+ 5 PG13  MA : Castle Rock, Marblehead
Start down to the left on the corner of the turret. Move right using juggy, flake holds. The ledge is off, only use feet on wall. There is a small, tough move in the middle with two small 45* crimps by the bottom left side of the smooth "Shield." Next with left foot on the discolored corner piece of the block in the puddle(rest of block is off route), get a high foot on the small ledge under the right wing of the bird, and mantle up with right hand on the right side of the blocky hold by the rig...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Comments on Castle Rock, Marblehead Add Comment
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By Nicholas Holsapple
Oct 31, 2014
Hey everyone,

This place is quite under-developed. If that is the case, I have three new routes to post from last night including a crack climb. If anyone has any other beta that is unavailable, please post - otherwise these seem like first ascents which I can post routes, grades, locations, beta, and photos.


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