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Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks

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* Castle Rock Bouldering 
* Sanborn-Skyline Bouldering 
Billy Goat Rock 
California Ridge 
Castle Rock Proper 
Chew Tooth 
Globule, The 
Goat Rock 
Hostess, The 
Indian Rock 
Last Temptation Cliff 
Lyme Disease Rock 
Mount Doom 
Muffins, The 
Platypus 
Shady Rock 
Summit Rock 
Underworld Rock 
Voyeur 
Waterfall Cliff 

Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks  


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Location: 37.2366, -122.105 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 356,512
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002
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Weird rock, in the cave at Castle Rock. Photo by B...

Description 

Castle Rock State Park is one of the larger climbing regions in the area, hosting a variety of sport, trad, boulding and top rope problems.

The rock is mostly sandstone, making it fairly easy on the hands and dynos quite slap happy.

Access into the main park will cost you a couple of dollars, but that shouldn't deter you. If money is a concern, you can also park outside the main area and walk into the park.

The bouldering at Castle Rock is some of the best in the state, if not the whole western U.S.

Getting There 

From the North: Drive to the town of Saratoga, which is located a little southwest of San Jose. Find Saratoga by heading south on the 101 a little past the Dumbarton Bridge. Take the 85 south exit, which is also the Cupertino / Santa Cruz exit. Take 85 south for about 10 miles, and exit on Saratoga Ave. Go right onto Saratoga, and follow this road through town. Saratoga Ave becomes Hwy 9, or Big Basin Way. Go up the mountain, and hang a left on Skyline Boulevard (35), which will be the 1st major intersection out of town. The main park is about 2.5 miles up on the right side, and is prominently marked.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

196 Total Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',95],['1 Star',28],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',11],['5.10',43],['5.11',32],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',29],['V4-5',23],['V6-7',20],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks:
The Spoon   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Spoon
Mr Magoo   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Magoos
The Classic   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   * Sanborn-Skyline Boulderin... : Indian Rock Boulders
Tree Problem   V4 6B     Boulder, 20'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Parking Lot Rock
Bates Arete   V4 6B R     Boulder, 10'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Bates Arete Boulder
Yabo Roof   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Parking Lot Rock
Waimea Arete   V5 6C     Boulder   Castle Rock Proper
Hueco Slap   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Magoos
Lost Keys Traverse   V6 7A     Boulder   * Sanborn-Skyline Boulderin... : Indian Rock Boulders
Hueco Wall   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Magoos
Deforestation    V7+ 7A+     Boulder, 14'   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Parking Lot Rock
University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Summit Rock
Puckered Starfish   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Indian Rock
The Falls   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Waterfall Cliff
Degeneration   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Waterfall Cliff
Mullah   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   California Ridge
The Great Roof   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Goat Rock
Tall Man Simplex   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR   Shady Rock
Clamydia   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Waterfall Cliff
Donkey Dong   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Indian Rock
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks

Featured Route For Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks
Drunkenmaster does Groundation V7FA! Cave Boulder,...

Groundation V7 7A+  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Cave Boulder
V6/7 stand start in head high left hand layback scoop and go up past hueco and seams to high jug top out! or V7/8 sit!! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks
Photos of Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks Slideshow Add Photo
Sitting down to beers atop Eagle Peak (to the sout...
Sitting down to beers atop Eagle Peak (to the sout...
Scenic Goat Rock
Scenic Goat Rock
Mike Arechiga on, California 5.11a. 5.11b.
Mike Arechiga on, California 5.11a. 5.11b.
Mike Arechiga on, 360 Boulder. V4.
Mike Arechiga on, 360 Boulder. V4.
Mike Arechiga on, The Mullah. 5.10a.
Mike Arechiga on, The Mullah. 5.10a.
Coastal fog from top of California Ridge. Photo by...
Coastal fog from top of California Ridge. Photo by...
Mike Arechiga at Castle Rock State Park.
Mike Arechiga at Castle Rock State Park.
Mike Arechiga on, The Spoon. V2.
Mike Arechiga on, The Spoon. V2.
Mike Arechiga on, The Beak. V2.
Mike Arechiga on, The Beak. V2.
Mike Arechiga on, Mr. Magoo. V0.
Mike Arechiga on, Mr. Magoo. V0.
Mike Arechiga on, Bates Arete. V4.
Mike Arechiga on, Bates Arete. V4.
Top off summit rock awesome view totally wort it.....
Top off summit rock awesome view totally wort it.....

Comments on Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2014
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006
The rock here, although short, is pretty cool. The forest is beautiful! The bugs get annoying and the yellowjackets are vicious!
By TBlom
Dec 24, 2007
After learning to climb around here, I moved to Colorado... I would definitely recommend leaving the Bay Area if you want to be a climber.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 5, 2008
Yosemite?
By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Apr 17, 2008
This area has really cool rock formations. The park service has put together a very nice pamphlet on how it's formed that you can buy for just $2. Check it out!
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2009
Hah, I learned to climb at Castle and also moved to Boulder. And yeah, it's way, way better here.
By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Nov 13, 2009
the bay area rocks! all you haters - stay in boulder with all the other snobby lizard people.

Castle has some great problems!
By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 23, 2009
I'm not sure if the boulder dudes are serious or not. Creeping on their photos for a while only produced pictures of climbing in far away areas (Indian Creek is 7? hours from boulder) and the greasy traverse in boulder notorious for getting smeared with poo poo from time to time. If that's what you're referring to as 'way, way better'...

On the positive side... I stumbled upon this park with my friend about 6 or 7 years ago and it seemed quite nice. It was very peaceful.
By munge
Jan 17, 2010
Tick Marks are not an accepted practice at CRSP without sufficient water or wiping off to remove their presence before moving to a new problem.
By nono
Feb 4, 2011
Any good camping nearby?
By Gary L. Reno
Feb 10, 2011
Castle is a great place to climb. Expecially for those who need a break from Yosemite. I have never been to Fountaineblaeu, but I've been told Castle mirrors it. Maybe its not so grandiose, but maybe a great place to train?
By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Feb 16, 2011
Your best camping option is in the park. There is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy. Memorial Day weekend and we were only one of three groups in the whole camp ground.
By Josterling
Nov 6, 2012
Found Some gear below Greeboo Route On the water fall cliff. if you have lost your gear give me an email Jordanius@live.com and let me know what you lost ill get it back to you. or call me 805-835-1626
By Mark Fletcher
Jan 14, 2014
If you park outside of the parking lot, be aware that the free parking areas within the marked parking zones can fill up very quickly on weekends with good weather, Do not park in areas which are not within the marked parking zones or have the end of your vehicle extending into the street otherwise you will get a ticket, Lastly, be careful about getting your vehicle stuck in the ditch near the parking spots - it happens often.
By Matt Pross
Aug 11, 2014
Like Stoney Point in So Cal but with more trees/shade and without the broken glass, graffiti, and chopped bolts.

Parking was a little crazy (crowded) but climbing was fun and uncrowded.