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Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks
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* Castle Rock Bouldering 
* Sanborn-Skyline Bouldering 
Billy Goat Rock 
California Ridge 
Castle Rock Proper 
Chew Tooth 
Globule, The 
Goat Rock 
Hostess, The 
Indian Rock 
Last Temptation Cliff 
Lyme Disease Rock 
Mount Doom 
Muffins, The 
Platypus 
Shady Rock 
Summit Rock 
Underworld Rock 
Voyeur 
Waterfall Cliff 

Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002

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Weird rock, in the cave at Castle Rock.
Photo by B...


Description 

Castle Rock State Park is one of the larger climbing regions in the area, hosting a variety of sport, trad, boulding and top rope problems.

The rock is mostly sandstone, making it fairly easy on the hands and dynos quite slap happy.

Access into the main park will cost you a couple of dollars, but that shouldn't deter you. If money is a concern, you can also park outside the main area and walk into the park.

The bouldering at Castle Rock is some of the best in the state, if not the whole western U.S.


Getting There 

From the North: Drive to the town of Saratoga, which is located a little southwest of San Jose. Find Saratoga by heading south on the 101 a little past the Dumbarton Bridge. Take the 85 south exit, which is also the Cupertino / Santa Cruz exit. Take 85 south for about 10 miles, and exit on Saratoga Ave. Go right onto Saratoga, and follow this road through town. Saratoga Ave becomes Hwy 9, or Big Basin Way. Go up the mountain, and hang a left on Skyline Boulevard (35), which will be the 1st major intersection out of town. The main park is about 2.5 miles up on the right side, and is prominently marked.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks:
The Spoon   V1     Boulder, 10 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Spoon
Waimea Wall   V1     Boulder   Castle Rock Proper
Bates Arete   V4 R     Boulder, 10 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Bates Arete Boulder
Tree Problem   V4     Boulder, 20 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Parking Lot Rock
Waimea Arete   V5     Boulder   Castle Rock Proper
Hueco Slap   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Magoos
Yabo Roof   V5     Boulder, 10 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : Parking Lot Rock
The Sticky Green Traverse   V6     Boulder   The Muffins
Bates Eliminate   V7-8     Boulder, 10 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : The Magoos
360 Degree Traverse   V8     Boulder, 10 feet   * Castle Rock Bouldering : 360 Degree Boulder
University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Summit Rock
The Falls   5.10a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Waterfall Cliff
Degeneration   5.10a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Waterfall Cliff
The Great Roof   5.10b     TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Goat Rock
Rectalphobiac   5.11b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Summit Rock
Skill Saw Gourmet   5.11d     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Summit Rock
Clamydia   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Waterfall Cliff
Krokus   5.11d R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Indian Rock
Donkey Dong   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Indian Rock
Center Route   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Chew Tooth
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks

Featured Route For Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks
slap away

Right Hand Indian Man V6  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Indian Rock Boulders
In the same nook as Dark Side of the Moon (see route description), sit start with a left hand in a juggy undercling and the right on a good hold at the arete. Slap up low percentage holds on the arete to a good hold at the top, roll it over...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks Slideshow Add Photo
Sitting down to beers atop Eagle Peak (to the south of Skyline Slabs) a climber stumbles and falls. Somehow, though, death is averted and he goes on to finish his beer.

Sitting down to beers atop Eagle Peak (to the sout...

Coastal fog from top of California Ridge. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Coastal fog from top of California Ridge.
Photo by...


Scenic Goat Rock

Scenic Goat Rock

Mike Arechiga at Castle Rock State Park.

Mike Arechiga at Castle Rock State Park.

Mike Arechiga on, The Beak. V2.

Mike Arechiga on, The Beak. V2.

Mike Arechiga on, Bates Arete. V4.

Mike Arechiga on, Bates Arete. V4.

Mike Arechiga on, 360 Boulder. V4.

Mike Arechiga on, 360 Boulder. V4.

Mike Arechiga on, The Spoon. V2.

Mike Arechiga on, The Spoon. V2.

Mike Arechiga on, The Mullah. 5.10a.

Mike Arechiga on, The Mullah. 5.10a.

Mike Arechiga on, Mr. Magoo. V0.

Mike Arechiga on, Mr. Magoo. V0.

Mike Arechiga on, California 5.11a. 5.11b.

Mike Arechiga on, California 5.11a. 5.11b.


Comments on Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyline Parks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 6, 2012
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

The rock here, although short, is pretty cool. The forest is beautiful! The bugs get annoying and the yellowjackets are vicious!

By Tevis Blom
Dec 24, 2007

After learning to climb around here, I moved to Colorado... I would definitely recommend leaving the Bay Area if you want to be a climber.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Jan 5, 2008

Yosemite?

By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Apr 17, 2008

This area has really cool rock formations. The park service has put together a very nice pamphlet on how it's formed that you can buy for just $2. Check it out!

By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2009

Hah, I learned to climb at Castle and also moved to Boulder. And yeah, it's way, way better here.

By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Nov 13, 2009

the bay area rocks! all you haters - stay in boulder with all the other snobby lizard people.

Castle has some great problems!

By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 23, 2009

I'm not sure if the boulder dudes are serious or not. Creeping on their photos for a while only produced pictures of climbing in far away areas (Indian Creek is 7? hours from boulder) and the greasy traverse in boulder notorious for getting smeared with poo poo from time to time. If that's what you're referring to as 'way, way better'...

On the positive side... I stumbled upon this park with my friend about 6 or 7 years ago and it seemed quite nice. It was very peaceful.

By munge
Jan 17, 2010

Tick Marks are not an accepted practice at CRSP without sufficient water or wiping off to remove their presence before moving to a new problem.

By nono
Feb 4, 2011

Any good camping nearby?

By Gary L. Reno
Feb 10, 2011

Castle is a great place to climb. Expecially for those who need a break from Yosemite. I have never been to Fountaineblaeu, but I've been told Castle mirrors it. Maybe its not so grandiose, but maybe a great place to train?

By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Feb 16, 2011

Your best camping option is in the park. There is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy. Memorial Day weekend and we were only one of three groups in the whole camp ground.

By Josterling
Nov 6, 2012

Found Some gear below Greeboo Route On the water fall cliff. if you have lost your gear give me an email Jordanius@live.com and let me know what you lost ill get it back to you. or call me 805-835-1626