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Castle Rock - East Face Rock Climbing
Routes in Castle Rock - East Face
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10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Extreme X-Poseur S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Moral Kiosk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sampler Platter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slow Children Playing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| GPS: |
42.12418, -113.6714 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 16,884 total · 77/month |
| Shared By: | David Tvedt on Apr 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
The large eastern face of Castle Rock covers the area from the edge of the North Wall to the edge of the South Face. It has a mix of sport, trad, and mixed, bolt and gear routes. Shade in the afternoon. Less crowded than the west side of Castle Rock.
Getting There
The fastest approach is to take the south road/trail from the trailhead, and head north on the trail that goes along the east front of the rock. Look for a flagged sign for Crimson Arete and follow the trail uphill to the left. The majority of the routes are in the "notch" on the east face and are reached by the Crimson Arete trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock - East Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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