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Castle Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Castle Peak

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North Face (Left Buttress) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow

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Elevation:	8,306 ft
GPS:	48.9838, -120.8688 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,137 total · 28/month
Shared By:	blakeherrington on Jun 17, 2009
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

Castle Peak is a remote granite mountain sitting at the intersection of Whatcom County, Okanogan County, and the US/Canada border. It is seldom climbed, and seldom seen (from up close) yet holds fantastic rock and scenery, with an approach that isn't too long by local standards. Additionally, the glacier at the foot of the North Face is mellow enough to allow for easy travel. The alpine meadows at the foot of the north face are sublime.

The Kearney route, on the East Buttress of the South Face, is included in his Selected Climbs book, but has likely only seen one repeat. It is meant to be a good climb.

The Colorado Route (Glick/Pennings/Medara) has likely not been repeated. It looks classic.

The Herrington/Hirst route was attempted by at least one party before being completed in 2008. It may share an initial pitch or 2 with the Colorado Route.

The Berdinka/Layton Route (Sod-On-Me) goes from great climbing to a mossy/dirty, lower-angled feature. It has seen at least one repeat.

Getting There

Approach is best done via Canada's Hwy3 East of Hope, BC - Manning Provincial Park (visitor center here) - Hike to the Frosty Mountain lookout (good marked trail) - Head south cross country, over international border, obvious terrain to North Face.