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 ADVANCED
Zealand Notch
Select Route:
Black Knight , The T 
Castle Keep T 
Lady Slippers T 
Red Queen (unfinished), The T 

Castle Keep 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Teresa Nagle and Bradley White, summer 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 8, 2010

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halfway to the trail.

Description 

I scrambled right up the slab half way and the into the trees. Teresa stayed in the center and finished the slab 100ft (the slab has some steep bulging sections too, that would require bolting). At the top of the slab we traversed right away from the trees onto a decent belay stance. Above our stance, Teresa led up a flaring outcrop of rock and onto face climbing until the next tree ledge was reach (90ft). From this tree ledge move up the face until the right facing ramp is reached. Exit ramp onto ledge and traverse north until decent belay is reached (110ft). Climb up into the left facing ramp and move right and up to top off in sandy rocky sloping surface. Climb this until tree belay is reached (90ft).
To create the four star route do the first pitch of 'The Red Queen' and on the second pitch head diagonally north to reach the first belay ledge stance of 'Castle Keep'. Doing the climb this way will be on solid fine granite rock except for the last pitch ending that is conway granite with some wedged and loose rocks on it, that aren't a bother.

Location 

Head up the northern side of the widest middle talus field.

Protection 

TCU's are very helpful. #2-2.5 friend. Some small to medium stoppers, A couple of lost arrow and blade pitons.


Photos of Castle Keep Slideshow Add Photo
Some sunny day.
Some sunny day.
Castle Keep is the white rock ridge going diagonally up. The start is not in the image.
BETA PHOTO: Castle Keep is the white rock ridge going diagonal...
Finding our way down by heading north.
Finding our way down by heading north.
Teresa liked the second pitch.
Teresa liked the second pitch.
The north rockslide buttress and the wet rock is possibly an ice runnel in the winter.
The north rockslide buttress and the wet rock is p...
Overhang above right to us.
Overhang above right to us.
Teresa leading the start in sneakers.
Teresa leading the start in sneakers.
Teresa starting the last pitch.
Teresa starting the last pitch.
Northern terrain.
Northern terrain.
The last pitch ramp. The rock in the crack is loose.
The last pitch ramp. The rock in the crack is loos...
Not exactly what I wanted to down climb this long north rockslide with it's many loose rocks.
Not exactly what I wanted to down climb this long ...
Right of the ramp and above the overhang.
Right of the ramp and above the overhang.
Lower down on the north rockslide buttress.
Lower down on the north rockslide buttress.
The granite block exit section of a recent rock slide.
The granite block exit section of a recent rock sl...
Red Queen can go to Castle Keep. This connection can be easily made. Halfway up the left side on the picture we climbed the diagonal split from white rock to the darker rock of a short headwall.
BETA PHOTO: Red Queen can go to Castle Keep. This connection c...

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