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Bekah Saylor
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Feb 13, 2013
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Bend, OR
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 10
Anyone know what the conditions are like at the crags? I have gotten a few glimpses from I-5 over the past couple weeks and they look pretty tempting with all the recent sunshine. Thanks!
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Forthright
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Feb 13, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
Uphill :P But no idea about the current conditions up there. Link up with the Epicmasters climbing group, they are a chill climbing group that does a ton of weekend trips during the warm months and Ricky and the rest of the people have a ton of knowledge and are good teachers/ sharers of wisdom.
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Mr B
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Feb 15, 2013
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 70
+1 for Epicmasters. My wife and I will be there this weekend. Hiking is the plan, but climbing would be a great bonus. I called The Fifth Season ( thefifthseason.com/climging…) and Shasta Base Camp ( shastabasecamp.com/) this morning. They said the climbing should be good, with warm temperatures today and tomorrow, cooling on Sunday with some increasing winds. Might rain/snow after Monday. It hasn't snowed in a while, so there's not much snow cover up there. North-facing slopes may still have snow. Descent on Cosmic Wall probably still has snow. There's probably snow at the base of Six Toe Crack. Have fun!
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Bekah Saylor
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Feb 15, 2013
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Bend, OR
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 10
Thanks for all the info. Maybe I'll see you guys up there!
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Mr B
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Feb 15, 2013
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 70
If you see us up there, stop by and say hi. We plan to camp Sat & Sun nights at the state park.
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Mr B
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Feb 25, 2013
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 70
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Bekah Saylor
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Feb 26, 2013
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Bend, OR
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 10
Amazing! I ended up sleeping in Castella but decided to go skiing instead. Thank you sharing your photos--will have to make it up there when there's another nice window of weather.
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splitclimber
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Feb 26, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 18
nice. super crack looks really good.
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Mr B
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Feb 27, 2013
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 70
Glad you liked the photos. Here's another shot of Super Crack: Super Crack (5.9) on Super Crack Spire, Castle Crags SP (2013/2/16) The belay at the base is on a ledge, so an anchor's not a bad idea. I really liked the route. Good jams, stemming, and a couple of great mantles. Easy to protect (I used cams and hexes from 1" to 4"). There were no bolts at the top of the crack. I slung a horn, cleaned the route, then rappelled from chains on the right (east) side of the spire above what I think is "The Regular Route" (5.6). There was also a single good bolt on the back (north) side of the spire where I'm sure there's additional climbing. The left side of the spire in this photo is, I think, "South Arete" (5.6), 2 pitches starting from the bottom of the spire and ending at the top of Super Crack.
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