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Poison Oak Boulder Area
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Cast of a Thousand Stones 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Piggot
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: EliotAC on Feb 17, 2011
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the seam crux
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Description 

Start the climb on the obvious cheat stone start. Try not to knock any blocks off. Reach up into the underclings and pull on. Traverse right using strength or trickery, lie back and stand up to an awkward rest. Next, bust out across the glass face using the seam (crux), use the broken section above the seam to head straight up or continue across the seam to escape out right.


Location 

Directly across the road from Hamburger Crack. Walk on top of the huge boulder that caps the huge chimney below. Set up the anchor on the south east side of the boulder down the smooth south east face. Walk down on the south side of the boulder to find the start. Look for the obvious cheat stone start.


Protection 

Gear anchor. BD cams #1-3



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 17, 2011

I don't think I've seen this one. I've probably stood atop of it a thousand times though. Good post Eliot

By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Feb 17, 2011

thanks Adam, it's pretty good but a little loose in the beginning

By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Feb 19, 2011

Edited so now it's "right." It did feel a little soft for the grade.