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Cassin C14 - Binding Conversion?
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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Jan 3, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA

I may be off with some of my terminology.

I have a pair of Cassin C14 Crampons. I recently bought a pair of boots, Scarpa Freney, and they do not have a "well" in the toe. I had brought along my crampons when I bought the boots, strapped them on, and it seemed like the would fit fine without the "well". However, that's not the case.

I'm wondering if there's a way to convert my C14's (in the front). I didn't see any accessories, or "newmatic" crampons available on Camp/Cassin's web page so it would be a Frankenstien project. If anyone knows of a place where I can get "newmatic" front straps or has experience with doing something like this, please let me know.

Thank you,
Michael


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Jan 6, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

You're talking about "welts," not "wells." So you have step-in crampons and boots that don't have a toe welt... Common problem. I did the same thing, with my first boot/pon matchup.

It doesn't look like Cassin makes a hybrid version of that front... so you're gonna have to order up new fronts or get different crampons, or get boots that have a toe welt.

EDIT - I just looked up that boot, and it DOES have a toe-welt. Your crampon should fit

Post a picture or two


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Jan 7, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA

They don't have the welt. They're the "sport" or "pro" model.


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By Gunkiemike
Jan 9, 2013

I'm sure there's some way to ghetto-rig the toe. That thin metal band that goes up to the ankle strap should keep the toe bail from dropping down off the toe. So maybe all you need is something coming up to the bail from below to keep it from getting too high e.g. up over the toe of the boot. A few minutes with a coat hanger and pliers might set you up. The idea is to drive your boot toe into the bail; the other bits are there just to keep the bail in place. Beats dropping $200 for new crampons, right? Just be sure you test them a lot in a safe setting (toprope) before getting into any risky spots where a crampon failure would be disastrous.


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Jan 9, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA

I contacted C.A.M.P. They used to sell an accessory for doing this but no longer carry it. Calling other manufactures after given a subtle hint that other front bindings could work. Hopefully I can get the spare parts needed.

And if anyone reading this just so happens to have an old pair of Petzl Lynx they're looking to retire and is willing to scrap the front bindings, please let me know.

Thanks, Michael


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By Cor
Jan 9, 2013
black nasty

You can buy that toe part from petzl...


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Jan 9, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA

Petzl says it's not a stocked replacement item. But a very nice lady who works there is trying to see if they have any they can spare.


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By Cor
Jan 9, 2013
black nasty

Shit, I thought I remember someone buying them...
Hope they help you out. They should sell them,
like all other companies sell spare parts.
Good luck!


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Jan 9, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Gunkiemike wrote:
I'm sure there's some way to ghetto-rig the toe. That thin metal band that goes up to the ankle strap should keep the toe bail from dropping down off the toe. So maybe all you need is something coming up to the bail from below to keep it from getting too high e.g. up over the toe of the boot. A few minutes with a coat hanger and pliers might set you up. The idea is to drive your boot toe into the bail; the other bits are there just to keep the bail in place. Beats dropping $200 for new crampons, right? Just be sure you test them a lot in a safe setting (toprope) before getting into any risky spots where a crampon failure would be disastrous.


I tried this once, in desperation... Doesn't matter how tight you crank it down, the toe of the boot will pop out the side at the worst possible time. I thought I was going to die.


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Jan 10, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA

So, here's an update...

Petzl gave me a call back last night, no go. It looks like putting it together with spare parts isn't going to happen unless someone is looking to scrap an old pair of crampons.

As far as trying to fabricate something I talked to my wife last night (she's an engineer) and she got all sorts of technical in terms of bending and heating chromoly steel, altering and possibly weakening its properties. And then she basically told me I don't have the equipment, knowledge, skills, or steady hand. Got to love honesty in a relationship.

Regarding Ben B's last comment. I believe you. But I still think it's possible. Looking at how the newmatic crampons work (no welt, just a strap) and then considering how snug they fit when I put them on the boots, I think I can pull it off. It may work once, it may work twice, and then the third time it doesn't work...but I still think it's worth trying. It may be a matter of rigging an extra strap.

I don't lead ice, so a crampon popping on top-rope isn't putting my life at risk (look out below!).


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