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Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

Type:  Boulder, 8'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
Season: Winter/Spring/Summer
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Seth Derr on Jan 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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MSB starting the classic GS Lowball Cassablanca

  • Governor Stable requires membership or a paid pass. The Circuit Area is currnetly closed to all climbing while access to the area is negotiated. Please respect the closed / no tresspassing signs posted near the pyramid. The rest of GS proper remains open to members and daypass holders. MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Not many moves, but tons of fun. Start sitting and matched on the giant jug rail. Hook a heel and bust up through a couple small holds to an easy top out. Dont miss this one if you're nearby


    Behind Rick's Cafe in the pit. Look for all the people.


    1 pad

    Photos of Cassablanca Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Emerging from the pit on cassablanca
    Emerging from the pit on cassablanca
    Rock Climbing Photo: The breakage
    The breakage

    Comments on Cassablanca Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Seth Derr
    From: harrisburg, pa
    Feb 7, 2014

    Use caution if you climb this thing. It's very possible that the large flake used for the starting hold could break off very soon. Wouldn't want that sucker to land in your lap.
    By skinny legs and all
    From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
    Feb 7, 2014
    rating: V3 6A

    This problem and it's harder eliminate are so classic that I would suggest very, very discreetly gluing the starting flake. With the width and length of the detachment I think there would be opportunities to inject epoxy in areas that would never interfere with handholds. Also I would crush up some pebbles on the ground to camouflage the glue. This problem is so old and well loved that it would be a shame if the flake broke off. I think Casablanca is one of the top five V3's at GS, and the V3-V5 range contains the best problems here too. If the flake broke it would certainly land in the climbers chest and lap, and that thing has to he heavy.
    By Seth Derr
    From: harrisburg, pa
    Feb 7, 2014

    We're definitely putting our heads together trying to decide what to do here. It would be a shame to lose this thing.
    By skinny legs and all
    From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
    Feb 7, 2014
    rating: V3 6A

    Is the flake really that loose? Granted, the last time I was on the problem was in 2006 or so, but I remember it being quite solid. Like no worries, it's not going anywhere. I guess now it is rattling back and forth by an inch or two whilst still being keyed in?

    If that is the case, rather than gluing I have another suggestion to consider. Locate the place on the flake that is abutting to the wall (probably in the center) and have multiple hands push it back flush to the wall while another person drills a deep hole entirely through the flake and into the solid rock behind it with a power drill. Then bolt that sucker to the wall with a long expansion bolt. I have seen this done out west on much larger, thinner flakes, even on sandstone with good results. The flake in question is nice and thick on bomber rock and I think this method would work very well.

    Granted it would not be aesthetic, but I feel that preservation of this one problem is an exception to the normal Pennsylvania ethic. I wouldn't consider this option at Gretna, but Governor Stables is essentially an outdoor gym. I bet this problem sees hundreds, if not a thousand attempts per year. I have seen some heavy guys reef on that flake. Losing it would change the problem entirely, most likely leaving no starting holds at all, not even a tiny crimp. What would be left would only be the lip, and therefore not a climb anymore at all.

    I would hate to see happen to this problem what happened to the two sit start flakes on the 45 Degree Wall, those that were used for the V7 45 problem and the V8 45 Arete.
    By skineepuppy
    Apr 21, 2014

    just a heads up as of 04/20/2014 the nice flake in the picture is deff no longer there. it looked like a really recent happening.
    By Seth Derr
    From: harrisburg, pa
    Apr 21, 2014

    Came off about a month ago. Casablanca still goes, possibly a touch harder. Cassanova is now an open project.
    By matthewWallace
    From: plymouth, nh
    Apr 25, 2014

    The starting flake has broken off making the start very awkward and powerful...

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