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37 Problems but a Piton Ain't One
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas |
Page Views: | 1,255 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | tenesmus on Jul 2, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Either start from the belay at the bottom of the Specter Wall, at the belay for My God, Your Godor over at Indie Dog Memorial Route. Head up the slab passing two bolts then traverse into blocky steepness, passing interspersed gear and one bolt to reach a broad ramp. Continue past a bolt to reach the anchors of Specter/Apparition. This is the easiest way to get to the top of the Specter Wall, making for a great way to work these routes..
Pitch 2: Scamper left from the belay and scramble to a high bolt before launching into 60' of tricky patina climbing, trending slightly right on decent holds to a reachy crux right below the lip. The anchor is over the top on a flat block, two bolts which are currently choking in multiple generations of webbing and cords, faded and rodent-munched. Bring a knife.
Pitch 2: Scamper left from the belay and scramble to a high bolt before launching into 60' of tricky patina climbing, trending slightly right on decent holds to a reachy crux right below the lip. The anchor is over the top on a flat block, two bolts which are currently choking in multiple generations of webbing and cords, faded and rodent-munched. Bring a knife.
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