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That roof is a blast!
Easy climbing leads to a nice easy roof.
Climb the crack to the base of the roof above. Load up the horizontals with gear and long slings. Work those feet up as you hand-over-hand out the large horizontal flake. Once fully extended, have faith and reach around to huge, hidden jugs. Cut loose and pull up onto the easy face above the roof. Climb this to the top.
Long broken crack to a roof in a highly impacted area. Maybe 200' right of the 'descent gully'. Just left of the awesome face climb "Night of the Climbing Dead".
Stoppers, cams to #2 or so...there's good gear all over this route.
BETA PHOTO: Cashmere roof.
BETA PHOTO: Cashmere top.
PW leading Cashmere 5.7
You can double protect crux with .75 BD cam and @P...
From: Decatur, GA
Jun 4, 2007
If you're planning to go to the Gunks, this is good prep for roof moves like the one on Shockley's Ceiling. I consider Cashmere slightly sandbagged at 5.7. I wasn't ready to lead it last time I was there, but I will lead it next time.
|By Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
Oct 27, 2008
The lower half can be protected with passive pro. But, use cams right at and in the roof. Nice intro to 5.7 trad.
|By Cres Simpson|
From: Birmingham, AL
May 26, 2012
Bolted anchors now at the top.