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Palisades Park
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Box Lunch T 
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Cashmere T,TR 
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Cashmere 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,171
Submitted By: Br'er Rabbit on Jun 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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You can double protect crux with .75 BD cam and @P...

Description 

Easy climbing leads to a nice easy roof.

Climb the crack to the base of the roof above. Load up the horizontals with gear and long slings. Work those feet up as you hand-over-hand out the large horizontal flake. Once fully extended, have faith and reach around to huge, hidden jugs. Cut loose and pull up onto the easy face above the roof. Climb this to the top.

Location 

Long broken crack to a roof in a highly impacted area. Maybe 200' right of the 'descent gully'. Just left of the awesome face climb "Night of the Climbing Dead".

Protection 

Stoppers, cams to #2 or so...there's good gear all over this route.


Photos of Cashmere Slideshow Add Photo
That roof is a blast!
That roof is a blast!
Cashmere roof.
BETA PHOTO: Cashmere roof.
Cashmere top.
BETA PHOTO: Cashmere top.
PW leading Cashmere 5.7
PW leading Cashmere 5.7
Pulling the roof on Cashmere
Pulling the roof on Cashmere

Comments on Cashmere Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you're planning to go to the Gunks, this is good prep for roof moves like the one on Shockley's Ceiling. I consider Cashmere slightly sandbagged at 5.7. I wasn't ready to lead it last time I was there, but I will lead it next time.
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Oct 27, 2008

The lower half can be protected with passive pro. But, use cams right at and in the roof. Nice intro to 5.7 trad.
By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
May 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bolted anchors now at the top.