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Cash Wall
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Amandla S 
Awethu S 
Cash in the Vault S 
Chump Change S 
Forty Two and No Rinkhals S 
Funny Money S 
Guns in the Vault S 
Money Changers S 
Nickel & Dime S 
One Inch Short S 
Payment in Pump S 

Cash in the Vault 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Don Goodhue, 1989
Page Views: 1,885
Submitted By: Brandon Schirm on Feb 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Ashley on the send.

Description 

Either start from the ledge, or belay from below and scramble up to the ledge, then follow up the clips and crimps on the right wall of the dihedral finishing on black streaked stone.

Location 

This is next to Payment in Pump on the Cash Wall.

Protection 

5 bolts.


Photos of Cash in the Vault Slideshow Add Photo
Cash in the Vault climbs the right wall of the dih...
Cash in the Vault climbs the right wall of the dih...

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 3, 2010

This has some great rock & cool moves, but it's ridiculously contrived even by Shelf standards. Curious to know why they didn't just put the bolts in the middle of the face. I suppose they wanted the crack in the right face to be on, but the dihedral crack & left wall to be off. Kinda hard to lieback a crack when you can't flag, because there's an enormous wall in your way, which, by the way, you can't touch because it's "off". Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road Blinders, but trying to establish a consensus grade on something like this is pointless.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2011

Great route! Maybe a little soft. Who knows? I think this would be an awesome "first" shelf road 13a, as it was for me. Fun movement on some ever so tiny holds. Branching out left is a fairly logical finish at the top, I haven't seen anyone go straight up. I guess if you want to add another letter grade stay on the upper headwall and don't use the huge opposing wall and jugs in the crack. Great fun!
By dancesatmoonrise
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Agree with Curt; great first 13a, but soft. I wasn't climbing at the 13 level when we did it in 1999, so while confidence-inspiring, it probably goes at 12c or 12d.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Sep 4, 2013

So, I assume Will bolted this route, since he seems to know what's on and what's not. Crack on the left is fair game in my book.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 23, 2014

I'd say just downgrade the route if you think it's not 13a with the crack, but this isn't gym climbing...cracks are on! If it's the most obvious way and the point of least resistance, maybe it should just be 12c or 12d now then!
By Mike to the B
Feb 16, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Perfect shelf crimping on some interesting, marble-esque limestone ... only wish it was another 50ft! I'd love to claim the 13a, but after dispatching on only three tries (using the crack)...I just couldn't, especially compared to crimpy 12+'s like Power Bulge (in the Flats).

That being said, I also tried the direct finish and the final 3 moves (past the two pockets at the 5th bolt) are significantly harder than any 13a I've ever been on. If I had to guess, I'd say the direct finish clocks in at more at 13b/c territory.

In any case, just my opinion, and great route nonetheless.
By Darryl Roth
Feb 24, 2015

I belayed Dave when he made the FA. He didn't use the crack. I'll defer to the truth of the top statement by Monomaniac... "Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road Blinders, but trying to establish a consensus grade on something like this is pointless."
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