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Payment in Pump 

Cash in the Vault 

5.13a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Don Goodhue, 1989
Submitted By: Brandon Schirm on Feb 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Cash in the Vault climbs the right wall of the dih...

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Description 

Either start from the ledge, or belay from below and scramble up to the ledge, then follow up the clips and crimps on the right wall of the dihedral finishing on black streaked stone.


Location 

This is next to Payment in Pump on the Cash Wall.


Protection 

5 bolts.



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Ashley on the send.

Ashley on the send.


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 3, 2010

This has some great rock & cool moves, but it's ridiculously contrived even by Shelf standards. Curious to know why they didn't just put the bolts in the middle of the face. I suppose they wanted the crack in the right face to be on, but the dihedral crack & left wall to be off. Kinda hard to lieback a crack when you can't flag, because there's an enormous wall in your way, which, by the way, you can't touch because it's "off". Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road Blinders, but trying to establish a consensus grade on something like this is pointless.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2011

I thought I would post a comment and some beta to contradict the one and only comment on this route. I did not feel that it was contrived and I thought it was a great route. If you like hard face climbing, you will love this route. All of the holds are there, many are just really tiny. There are some cool pinches, a mono pocket, and two 2 finger pockets. For the most part, a lot of the holds are small crimps. My parnter and I seem to do the sequences differently, but both worked for us. Branching out left at the top and using the other adjoining wall in the dihedral is the ONLY logical finish to this route, and I felt doing this should not be considered "off". There are a couple of good rests that you will want to milk at the first and second bolts. There is also a decent shake you can get below the third bolt by keeping your feet low and switching your hands out on a crimp rail. Milk this marginal rest, because from here it is pretty full on until near the top when you can branch left. I feel like this route is more 12+, maybe as low as 12c, but as with all grades, take it for what it's worth. If you like face climbing with technical feet, get on this route. This route would be a great first 5.13a as well, since I thought it was a little soft and I am mostly a 5.12+ climber on redpoint. Either way, it's a great route and worth the effort if your in the Vault area.... Gets sun from mid morning until late afternoon /early evening. Getting on this route when it is hot is not an option, because it would be significantly harder....

By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.13a

The left wall and the crack are off. You have to stay on the face the whole way. I guess you don't HAVE to, but If you want to do this route....

By dancesatmoonrise
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.12d

Agree with Curt; great first 13a, but soft. I wasn't climbing at the 13 level when we did it in 1999, so while confidence-inspiring, it probably goes at 12c or 12d.