Case Study 5.12b
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Lower tough section
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Description A bouldery start through the first two bolts leads to decent holds at the third bolt. Engaging climbing through good holds leads to a nice rest at the 5th bolt. From here a massive undercling move (climbers shorter than 5`5" or so beware) leads to big cranks between good holds with minimal feet. Finally a good flake provides a rest before clipping the chains.
Location Towards the right side of Main wall. 4th route right of the dihedral route "Psycho Friends". 2nd route left of the very difficult looking open project routes.
Protection 7 Bolts to Anchors, consider stickclipping the second bolt.
Upper tough section with a long undercling reach. ...
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By WAGbag Administrator From: Denver, CO Sep 2, 2010
| I'll slightly modify the statement "under 5'5" beware" by saying I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and it's the wingspan that tortured me, not height. With a bit of momentum and pulling my fingers slightly out of the undercling I was able to hit the crimp. |
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