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Guilty Pleasures 
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Psycho Friends 
To Air is Human 

Case Study 

5.12b

   
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Type: Sport, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
FA: Bryan Fife
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Lower tough section

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Description 

A bouldery start through the first two bolts leads to decent holds at the third bolt. Engaging climbing through good holds leads to a nice rest at the 5th bolt. From here a massive undercling move (climbers shorter than 5`5" or so beware) leads to big cranks between good holds with minimal feet. Finally a good flake provides a rest before clipping the chains.


Location 

Towards the right side of Main wall. 4th route right of the dihedral route "Psycho Friends". 2nd route left of the very difficult looking open project routes.


Protection 

7 Bolts to Anchors, consider stickclipping the second bolt.



Photos of Case Study Slideshow Add Photo
Upper tough section with a long undercling reach.  My span is 5'6" and I had rough go at it but it gets better by using terrible feet and a little momentum.

Upper tough section with a long undercling reach. ...


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By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 2, 2010

I'll slightly modify the statement "under 5'5" beware" by saying I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and it's the wingspan that tortured me, not height. With a bit of momentum and pulling my fingers slightly out of the undercling I was able to hit the crimp.