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Guilty Pleasures S 
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Psycho Friends S 
To Air is Human S 

Case Study 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bryan Fife
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 13, 2010

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Lower tough section

Description 

A bouldery start through the first two bolts leads to decent holds at the third bolt. Engaging climbing through good holds leads to a nice rest at the 5th bolt. From here a massive undercling move (climbers shorter than 5`5" or so beware) leads to big cranks between good holds with minimal feet. Finally a good flake provides a rest before clipping the chains.

Location 

Towards the right side of Main wall. 4th route right of the dihedral route "Psycho Friends". 2nd route left of the very difficult looking open project routes.

Protection 

7 Bolts to Anchors, consider stickclipping the second bolt.


Photos of Case Study Slideshow Add Photo
Upper tough section with a long undercling reach. ...
Upper tough section with a long undercling reach. ...

Comments on Case Study Add Comment
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By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 2, 2010

I'll slightly modify the statement "under 5'5" beware" by saying I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and it's the wingspan that tortured me, not height. With a bit of momentum and pulling my fingers slightly out of the undercling I was able to hit the crimp.