2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Start in the obvious dihedral for 15 feet to a ledge, then go up easy an unprotected wide crack for 5 feet. Head left on horizontal crack to find a thin crack up the left side of the face for 25-30 feet.
The wide section has some loose rock, but it is easily avoided by climbing on big holds outside of the crack. The thin crack (crux) through the face is sequency, sustained, and steep.
The bottom corner is two inches. The wide section has a spot at the bottom for a #3.5 Camalot in good rock. The wide crack is unprotected and created by a large, dettached block, be careful! The first good gear after this is small TCUs to 1 inch in the horizontal crack. The main crack takes small units and brass. It is very well-protected. Built gear anchor on top and descended on Tool King chains.
We were not sure whether these two cracks have been done. We talked to Dan Hare and he acknowledged climbing the right crack, but didn't know of anyone getting on the left crack. After attempting it and cleaning off loose rock in and around the crack, along with the difficult sequency moves, it had the signs of an unclimbed route. The crack on the right contains some sweet, wide groveling to hands.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2010 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
The grade on this one is pretty safe from any downgrading. As well, if you expect to have anythign resembling fun on this, tape up your fingers because this one is a sharp "eater" of a crack with rough uneven edges. Had I had tape at the beginning instead of blood knuckles at the end, I might have given this an additional star.
Tony B! That's great you climbed that thing. I think you are the only other person that has climbed it. I know it's a little sharp, but you might have been having a case of the fags that day. So, I think you might want to re-think that second star. Just kidding. I was thinking of putting an anchor in and maybe a bolt in that wide section which if I remember correctly was easy climbing but unprotectable. I really didn't think anyone else would climb it, so I left it alone. Oh and thanks for upgrading my route, that made my night.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Oct 29, 2010 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
I'd leave it bolt-less. The hard climbing is the thin stuff anyway and has 3-4 good placements between a rough fall and the crux. Nice work doing that, I thought it was quite hard.
On May 16, 1975, I led Patti Smith (not THAT rock star) up the right-hand crack. I thought it was about 5.9. If I were to name it, I would have called it "Acid Crack," in keeping with the theme of the route we did later that day (which we thought was Acid Rock, but instead was on the right side of this face and to the LEFT of the Bihedral route). Until now, I've never seen mention of this crack in any guidebook or database.
"Case of the Fags"? Really? Man, I am so ready to get the F out of Boulder... would you have named this 'Case of the niggers?' . but hey, looks like a decent climb! [If I was strong enough to climb 11d on gear, hah.]
George, I thought it was a worthy crack to be documented. Perhaps "Acid Crack" should be added to the list.
Phil, did you leave Boulder yet? Your blog is cool. I really enjoyed reading about all the cool things you do. I can see why one can take a look at this route name and be offended; however, I've never known climbing to be politically correct. Words aren't always as they seem. Page through a couple more guidebooks. Also, for someone so offended, you are really quick to throw the "n word" out there. Smoke more fags and get strong. Have fun. Boulder won't miss you.
Thanks, but that is exactly what I mean, dude.... I'm all for being 'politically uncorrect', but I think saying 'case of the fags', as in disease or something, goes a little beyond that into clearly being offensive. Maybe I'm overreacting a bit, but I've read plenty of guidebooks and out there climb names I'm just tired of people dismissing stuff like this as being 'no big deal.' If something makes you feel like shit, well then it is kinda a big deal. And yah, I'm not in Boulder anymore, I'm actually living in Northern Sweden now, a stone's throw from Yosemite-quality granite on the sea and bigwalls galore in Northern Norway, with hardly anyone there. So, life's not so bad. Though my comment wasn't so much directed at 'Boulder' as much as a certain attitude I suppose exists everywhere I just felt I was seeing a little much of. Anyways no hard feelings and thanks for checking out my blog!